Has anyone had any experience/success utilizing "synthetic" fiber based cutting cords versus the traditional metal wire? If so, what cut-out systems are you using and who makes the cord?

I am personally using fiber wire i think it is called i use it in my glass bot system mainly when using the glass bot lite. BUT i have used it in my regular glass bot.

Cord requires more force to do the same work over wire. Depending on the size (diameter) of the cord and if it is coated or un-coated. Cord stresses the adhesive to failure, it does not "cut" it.

In our test, using an uncoated braid that is approximately .030" diameter we found a 28% increase in the amount of force required over wire. Our other cord at .044" diameter was over 50% more force required over wire.

Wire gives a nice even cut and leaves the adhesive surface smooth. Cord leaves the adhesive surface rougher with more porous surface from the tearing process. It also leaves some debris or very small bits of the adhesive around that needs to be cleaned up.

So if reviewing cord and which one to use you might start with diameter size. The larger the diameter the higher the breaking strength and the harder it is to move through the adhesive. Ours is rated at 200 lbs and 300 lbs breaking strength. Bigger is not always better as it increases the forces unnecessarily in our opinion.

You can test this situation easily with a block of cheese. Just pull wire though it and then do the same with string. You will feel the difference.

No jokes about who cut the cheese please.

Rick

I love cheese

Fiber wire can be reused multiple times compared to metal wires, without major degradation of its cutting properties. Reuse creates savings.

Thanks for your thoughts gentlemen.

Rick- When you say coated vs. non coated what do you mean? Will a coating help the line cut through the urethane? I imagine a strong line with a lubricant coating could be the optimum product, especially if i can use it a few times.

I agree, the wire is easier and cuts cleaner. I like the re usability of fiber however. Who makes a good fiber braid for me to try? Is anyone concerned with damaging the paint or pinchwelds?

All fiber cords are reusable, uncoated cord has a smaller diameter than coated cord for the same breaking strength.

In our test, with just the material we tested, we found residue from the coatings and this concerned us regarding contamination issues so we decided to only offer uncoated products at this time.

I am unaware if other companies have tested their products regarding this question. As most winders cut the adhesive very tight to the body, some cuts don't require any further trimming of the bead and if any contamination is there it would be difficult to remove / clean in my opinion. We've reviewed the "lubricated" products and came to the same conclusion, residue on the adhesive after use.

I don't have the facilities to test this situation (elongation pull test and lap shear testing) to see if this residue has any bearing on the bond so I can't say what if any degradation is taking place. We just ere on the side of caution when offering products.

Any introduction of contamination in a replacement process should be reviewed with your adhesive supplier.

Good question on damage. With more (30% and climbing) vehicles being made from aluminum, I questioned Mitch Becker if he had any concerns with higher strength braided cords being used on winding tools and if he felt the lateral pulling forces could open body seams and / or distort the body panels. This is especially a concern at the bottom corners where the adhesive is the widest and the body seam is under the adhesive.

I have not heard back from him. Auto body professionals should take a look at this process as some of these products are new and possibly untested for this situation.

Good questions and maybe some of the other suppliers would like to chime in regarding their products.

As far as who supplies cords, there are several suppliers out there and they advertize in AGRR.

We don't use the coated line either simply for the coating fact and the residue it may leave. I'd like to hear some urethane manufacturers sound off on this.

Rick,
Great info!! It sounds like you have done a tremendous amount of research into these lines. Looks like I am late to the party! Have you been able to decipher what these "coatings" are? Is it grease or oil? Do they rub off on your hands or leave marks on other surfaces? I imagine if you are getting residue on the adhesive, these types of lines must be drenched with coating. Any more insight you can provide is helpful. You mentioned you are using a non coated line?

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on what system i should try? I have used a friend and fellow tech's wrd spider in the past. it worked well but was hoping for something a little more sturdy.

I have been looking at different wire systems also , but I'm more interested in the wire for now,but I have some ?'s can you set up on back glass with window tint? It seems like every R&I lately has tint on it and are flush set.

I try to cut any back Glass out with tint on it, from the outside.. or using my BTB tool which is the best tool I have ever used, I don't know how I ever did Removals without it.

In Regards to tint as long as your getting suction, I do not see why you could not use it, however sometimes you might get that annoying suction looking ring on the inside of the tint...

I tape, EVERYTHING possible when something has tint and using it from the inside..

Thanks Larry, I have had good success so far cutting from outside but some cars i've looked at in parking lots look to close to cut.I was thinking the tint would pull loose and then need new tint installed, and I replaced quite a few back glasses after tint removed.Thanks for response and I will (keep on cuttin)

There are things that you will be AMAZED at what an Ultra Wiz thin paint protection blade will work on, its hand down the most innovative cold knife blades i have ever used... The other day I did a ford fusion back glass (WHAT A POS) and it was so tight but the ultra wiz paint protection blade did the job!! Amazing!

BTW I hate tint, I am in the process of learning to tint...

71, the braided lines color coat will come off, if you run them through your hands you will see residue. Not "drenched" in oil or grease obviously but
ANY residue on a bonding surface is a concern for me so we just sell the uncoated (white) fiber string. Again, I support any review of the bonding prep from the adhesive mfg's on this issue.

I would think any "lubricating" braid would be designed with some residue as a mechanical property for the "lubrication" feature.

Again, thinner is better for drag issues which relates directly to power required, either manual or power, so check the dimensions for this feature.

I would think most systems will adhere to tint. Ours adheres to most back glass parts with surface grids as well.

Related to wire systems, in the last two years over 13 different models of manual winding tools have come to market (search YouTube). If you watch enough videos, you can see they all perform the same function, winding the wire upon a spool or shaft utilizing a ratcheting wrench. They range in cost from around $450 to over $2000.

There are four winders that are power assisted, using a drill motor to power the spool or shaft. Same function, just no wrench to spin.

There is one powered winder (Made in USA) with a remote control that puts you outside the vehicle to operate.

Good luck.

Thanks so much for your responses. Have a happy holiday and best wishes in 2015.

Larry, Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. 2014 was a great year and 2015 looks to be even better.

Cheers,

Rick and Connie Nelson