anyone using this stuff what do you think about it any tips or hints?

I believe Sika took this over from ADCO so take from that what you will. Sika has always been a pretty solid line of products, but I'm not sure about this.

there is two kinds of titan plus and just titan do not use the regular titan unless its going to set for 24 hours, but i use the 3hour drive away titan plus on all of my car lots, body shops and the ones i know will set at least 3 hours. good stuff

Use the P2G+.its also HV and SDAT is way better.All SIKA primers are caompatible with this adhesive system.

Been using it since it hit the market. We still apply activator pro to everything and and have had no failures. Excellent decking, doesn't string and it's at a great price point for a non-conductive product.

p2g is what im using seems ok so far had some air leakers but i was warming it up to much i think. i leave it in the shade now.

Dont warm up.Use a 18v millwaulkee caulking gun has 900 psi.

I tried p2g+ but had to stop after multiple leakers and at least one full bond release. I contacted my sika rep who told me to use aktivator on the glass. WHAT??? This stuff is supposed to be primerless to glass. I just went back to what I was using before.

Have you ever tried Dinol Direct? It is a cold applied, primerless to glass, high viscosity, non-conductive product. Sold in cartridge or sausage. SDAT is 3 hrs @70degrees & 50 % humidity. This is a great product. For a 1 hr SDAT, they also offer D9000 in cartridge or sausage.

about 1 out of 10 tubes explode in the caulking gun.

I have been using it for a few months now and like it. No issues.

Talked to my Sika Rep today 11/05/13. He said, even though it is primerless, unless you "wet scrub" with glass cleaner and a green brillo type pad, it will not stick that well.

He also said Sika completely reformulated Titan P2G and p2g+. He said the formulation (from the original manufacturer was not up to Sika's specs.

He also said, if you do not do the wet scrub (which is always okay, by the way), you must use Aktivator. So, it's primerless with wet scrub and full glass cleaning or skip the scrubbing and just wash and apply Orange-cap Aktivator. Same as with cool etc.

It is non-conductive, HOWEVER, IT IS NOT HIGH-MODULUS. Watch it on your VW's and Audi's etc. that require high-mod. Do not use it. Use only high-mod like Cool, MOVE, etc.

He said it's a good product if used right, i.e., make sure you have enough time to let it sit before customer drives.

I personally ran an Aktivator test on all 3...Titan p2g+, Cool and MOVE. Once cured, it is really flexible (thus, not high-mod). Cool and MOVE were stiff as a board. Hope this helps.

Actually not true there is asap in sausage... and you cant buy it but safelite can.

Your Sika rep says "if you do not wet-scrub you must use Activator". This is not much different than using Sikaflex 220, cool, asap ect... These other products are not primerless and what is the required primer?; Activator. Primerless to auto glass (fritted) should be just that & if it's not then it's not primerless. Think about what you're being told; use Activator on the glass, G&P206 on the body & Primer 215 for PVC encapsulation. Sure sounds like a lot of primers for a primerless urethane.