install glass for about ten years already. only had 3 leak within that ten year, i alway urethane round bead. few of my friend work for big glass comany they are require to urethane v-bead only. how u guys shoot your urethane bead. i always full cut urethane + no short cut. every w/s takes me about an hour sometime more.

All of the urethane manufactures recommend a v-notch
for the urethane bead as it does not create air pockets!

Always v-notch. It makes for much better contact.

always v-bead haven't used a round bead in about ten years, since we started using high vicosity urethane.

WITH A V-BEAD YOU ALSO USE 15% LESS MATERIAL YOU DO NOT NEED TO USE.

I was a round beader then a square beader but really the best with the least of problems is the V-bead. Round beads usually comes from when you or the person who trained you used a round buytle product ( i am an old timer in this business ) you get to much air under round and square beads. V-beads has less air and better usage of the glue..d

Also v bead lays flat without excess squeeze.

what brand of urethane you guys use for summer weather.
i use dinol 500mv. thinking about different brand for summer weather. thanks

Have been a round beader for years. Don't mind the extra urethane use. Works best for me. I see a broader urethane adhesion to glass & body.
My opion tomato or tommato ?

Well if you have been doing glass for 10yrs then you would know that AGRSS,Lynx, SGC and all car manufacturer specs require V-Beads on all installations that require the use of urethane. I would recomend checking out your urethane manufactures web site for installation proceedures it may help save you time ,money and a life.
In 18 yrs in busines we have had 1 come back do to a deffective dw1026gby from ppg (thats a dw1217gby for all you that may have foregot) (ecapsulation cam off glass) on 3/22/96 and 227 repeat customers for replacement or repairs. We keep a black note book to document come backs or warranty issues and a white one that documents all repeat customers or new installs.

nin
we use sika cool if no passenger airbag or if it can sit for upto 6 hours otherwise we use sika asap. i have been using sika since around 92-93? never really had any problems with it yet.

Have had private conversations with urethane reps. Yes party line is v bead. Make a big difference in windshield retention er....no. Also FYI talk to urethane reps and if you are useing primerless to glass urethane. The company STILL recomends prime the glasss. They do not back no primer on glass. So much for product literature.

I did an 1105 yesterday that somebody had done using a round bead. 3/4 of the bottom the urethane wasn't even making contact with the glass.

I knew my installation would be 1000% better because of my v-bead.

LOL I did a Dw1331 today with a V bead. Barely any surface with of urethane on glass. Knife slid across whole top with no effort. There were spots not toucing at all. Tomato or Tommato?

Explain to me how a round bead would contact better?That windshield you took out was installed wrong.Sounds like they did not push it down at all.Put your geometry to use and you will see the difference when the glass is pushed down a little,v-bead to round.

Hang on a second.....

A round bead of 1/2 inch diameter may not contact on several installations...but has a substantial amount of urethane 'in' it.

A V-bead that is 1/2 inch wide at the base, but 3/4 inch tall may have the same amount of urethane, but will compress and wet out to an acceptable width without the risk of bubbles in the bead. Whether you gun the glass or the body, is your choice; I prefer gunning the glass, but the key is to apply the appropriate size bead for the installation. Few are the same for us. I always look for body variations even on vehicles I have seen that model of many many times...and still may vary from what experience tells me is the size to use. I look at the existing bead while trimming for telltale signs of high and low spots. And....too much urethane can be just as bad as not enough.

This is one reason I quote to point out that we are not in a cookie cutter business. It's about the effort we as professionals put forth that makes what we do an art. It takes a trained eye, experience, and effort, to be sure everything is done right, no two jobs are the same, and a rookie with 6 months experience isn't likely to have that 'eye' nor develop it if he's being taught the quantity business model.

As to horror stories, pulled a DW1460 out today that was recently done by others. THe installer did a fine job, followed all proper procedures, primed scratches, everything looked fine. Trouble was it leaked like a seive. The installer told the older gentleman that the problem is common with Taurus's leaking at the top passenger corner of the body opening and running down the A piller interior molding to the floor on the passenger side.

The mistake the installer made, was he gunned the glass, but then allowed the V bead to touch the roof on the passenger side top when setting the shield. Consequently, there was a 12" wide gap that did not seal. I certainly didn't know this was a "common problem" with Taurus's. LOL I believe the gentleman will be taking some photos back to the original installer with some questions about this "common" problem.

I've been noting that our 're-repair' work is growing quite nicley, and nicely profitable, in the last year or so....hmmmm. Mabey more of these "common" problems are out there than I know of....lol

As to urethane mfgs recommending glass priming WITH their primerless to glass urethanes....???...who exactly are these reps that said that?

Enquiring minds want to know....lol

Spoke to Sterling Rep and Essex Rep. Sterling Rep elaborated saying yes we make a primerless urethane so the guys that don't prime at all have a shot at the glass sticking. We still say use primer.

Follow urethane manufacturers guidelines!!!Ten years of installing glass has made me realize change is good, so all you old timers doing it your way are the reason we look bad to a lot of people in the car industry. Cars are changing, so should we. And anyone with ten years has had more than three comebacks! Lets stop bragging and be REAL!

V-bead, round bead, trunciated pyramid Asian bead, high L bead, spiral k bead, have used them all. No comebacks last 37 years. It isn't what you lay it's how you lay it so there is suciffecent thane to do the job. I wish you people would quit BEADING OFF here.

No the thing that makes us look bad is newbies,rookies and anyone with less than5-10 years exp.or companies that fail to follow manufacture specs and or fails to train techs properly have more than 3 comes backs in 10 yrs. ,but my company is not safelite or Diamond Triumph or whatever they call them selves . If our techs have a come back they pack up and go to work elsewhere. Peoples lifes are @stake this is not the lick'em & stick'em 70's - 80's and the sooner some of these guys realize this (round beaders and hacks) than you will stop seeing auto glass companies on 20/20 and ch.9 news for faulty replacements.

and for those guys that do safe installs keep it up

Who makes and carries "Sterling"?

Sglass-wasn't it you that mentioned Sterling as a brand of urethane? Could you provide more info...

Yes, Sterling is a brand. We get it from local independent dist. United Glass Dist.
Not from Pilk. or PPG

Who makes it? Is it like Power bond?

Sglass- Do you know who makes this stuff or not?

Sika

So Sika makes it, but it is not available from Pilk or PPG...Interesting, wonder why?

Sterling is manufactured by Adco
1-800-424-9300

Still strange that only one company carries this....

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Holy ****, can I just say I'm so sick of this nerdy conversation of "oh if you don't shoott v bead it's wrong". Listen, I been doing this for 14 years. The man I learned from has been doing it 25. We both shoot round bead. All the certifaction dorks think they are so high and mighty because of a piece of paper. Let's get this out in the open, I don't have problems with leaks or air noises. If you shoot a round bead big enough it WILL stick. It's funny to me that most people don't realize half the installers out on the road just suck at their job. I don't know though food for thought.

I have been shooting on top for 20 years and no problems. You guys are wusseys. All these companies want you to do is use more glue. Your blind not to see this. If you partial cut the right way, You wont even scratch the metal. no metal primers needed. You LOSERS

2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mopar glass comes with a service bulletin attached saying to use a V bead that is 12mm wide at the bottom and 15mm tall to overcome the wavy pinchwelds that are causing leak problems on these. I did it that way, but still got an airnoise at the top (underside molding 3/4, and laying great). Talking to the dealer about it and I decided to run a very thin bead under the molding to prevent the molding vibration... no idea what I would do different If I need to warranty the install. A round bead would never be able to satisfy the OEM recommendations. And that's why you are all hacks and I'm the king and blah, blah, blah losers. lol. **** happens. Get over yourself. Peace and happiness bro's!