Darn thing kicked my tuckus today, ended up breaking it. Any hints on installations. Take visor off, leave on, how do you seal? lubricants? Tricks!? Thanks for any help.

I run a M-kit in the groove, rope in with hook tool lots a glass cleaner .

m-kit?

foam core butyl

I use after seal, a 1/8 in. rope and spray silicone. As for installing: starting at the bottom center pull the rope towards the center of the truck and up the side about half way.( keeping constent pressure with a suction cup downward and pulling in so the glass doesn't slip). then pull the rope towards the outside of the truck up about half way. .( keeping constent pressure with a suction cup downward and pulling in so the glass doesn't slip). now the glass should hold itself in.Go back to the center and continue the process pulling toward the center of the glass also watch that the lip is still going over the pinchweld.usualy about a 1/4 across the top. Then to the outside rope and continue to pull making sure the lip is going over the pinchweld, It helps if you hold the glass with your hand on the outside edge by reaching around through the door. Now continue to pull the rope(towards the center of the glass) and finish the job. If the glass doesn't pop in than go outside and deck it. Average time is 15 minutes.(for me). A hook tool is helpful to push the lower inside corner in place or if the rope pulls out.

I hope this helps, but having someone who has done alot of these show you is much better.

cut the interior rubber off first this makes taking out glass a lot easier. Clean glass, install butly tape to glass(molding) put suction cup on so it faces the inside of truck. soak the heck out of pinch weld of truck with a good foaming glass cleaner also soak the molding (ecapsilation) of the glass line up the glass with the pinchweld (i do this from the inside)
and rope it in using 1/4 rope and a hook tool. be careful around corners so you don't rip the rubber. About a 25 minute installation.

We had several LOF and PPG with real soft moldings that tear easily. Finaly bought OE, much better (same as Guardian).

Can probly buy oem from Pete cheaper too....

From Peterbilt.
1987-2005 PETERBILT
FIELD SERVICE BULLETIN
NAGS®: DW01036 / DW01037


File Group: 20 Section: Cab & Doors

Model 379-Family Windshield Installation

This bulletin is applicable to all Model 379-family vehicles.
There are occasions when a replacement windshield may not attain a watertight seal during installation. This may be due to a residue left in the windshield recess channel. The residue prevents the butyl sealing tape, from properly bonding to the channel's surface, which could result in a water leak when the windshield is installed. The channel must be thoroughly cleaned to ensure a watertight seal.

A change to the windshield replacement procedure for the above vehicles has been developed. The change involves cleaning the channel with mineral spirits then treating the channel with a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust.

Installing A Model 379-family Windshield
Follow the procedure below to install a conventional windshield.
1. Ensure that the pinchweld is clean and free from any residue left from the previous windshield installation.
2. Moisten a clean cloth with mineral spirits.
3. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel vigorously with the cloth.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 as necessary, starting with a clean cloth each time to ensure that the residue is not redistributed within the channel.
5. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel a final time with a clean, dry cloth.
6. Apply a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust to the entire channel, using a dauber, according to the manufacturer's instructions. .
NOTE: Do not remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.
7. Apply 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) butyl tape can also use 6X6mm Hollow Core Butyl Tape in the recess channel of the windshield encapsulation. I use the Gold Glass Foamcore butyl 6mm.
8. Using a nylon pull rope 3/16 in. (4.7 mm) in diameter and 12 feet (3.7 m) long. Tie loops on each end of rope for handholds.
9. Lubricate the pull rope with a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water. Wipe clean any excess solution prior to use.
10. lnsert the pull rope in and around the windshield encapsulation, on the top and both sides only, where the windshield mask flange is designed to go.
11. Brush or spray on a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water
inside the top flaps of the windshield encapsulation; ie., the areas behind which the
pull rope is inserted. This will allow the flaps to pull in across the mask with less drag.
Two persons are required for windshield installation:
· One person inside the cab to pull the windshield in by pulling the rope (the rope puller).
· One person to place the windshield in the mask and assist in the installation by apply
ing pressure in certain areas as the rope is pulled (the windshield handler). The right
hand windshield is normally installed first, but this is a matter of preference.

12. Remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.

CAUTION: Exercise care when setting the bottom inboard corner. The flap is susceptible to tearing if it is caught in a bind with the flange.
13. Set the bottom inboard corner of the windshield into the mask opening, next to the center post. Ensure that the encapsulation flap is on the inside of the cab over the bottom mask flange. As the bottom of the windshield is set into place, position the pull rope ends to be pulled from inside the cab

NOTE: At this point, the windshield handler must ensure that the windshield is pushed down into the mask (windshield frame) as tightly as possible.



14. Windshield handler:
- Push the windshield towards the inside of the cab, exerting a nominal amount of force.
Rope puller:
- - Pull the rope up the inboard side for the entire length of the center post, stopping short of the radius. .
- Pull the rope up the outboard side for 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the outboard edge. _.

NOTE: The rope puller must ensure that the encapsulation flap is over the mask flange where the rope has been pulled. If there is an area of the encapsulation that is not over the flange, the windshield handler should assist by applying a more inward force by intermittently striking the windshield with the palm of the hand. Then the inside flap should be driven in position by striking the glass with the palm of the hand.

15. Windshield handler: Apply inward pressure to the windshield until the rope is completely pulled through. This pressure can be applied by pushing and/or striking (a glancing blow) with the hand. Work in unison with the rope puller.
· Rope puller: Starting at the center post, pull the rope through the radius, along the top, and through the outboard radius, stopping just outside the radius to complete the pull.
· If the two installers work together, the windshield should "pop in" as the above step is completed.
16. Repeat the above steps to install the other windshield. Remember: Setting the windshield center to outboard is the key to properly positioning the windshield in the opening.

If you run into a pete that has the extra low visor the procedure is the same but i've found that if you start the roping process from the top instead of the bottom it makes it doable but a PITA!

We will only install Guardian brand in those due to the fit.

STREEKYD'S got it. The only things we do not said there we learned from an old timer at peterbuilt. He taught us to take wide masking tape, inside and out right away for removal, sure saves on clean-up time and glass all over the place. Also he used 12-14 gauge plastic coated wire, slides much better than rope. He used wet type silicone spray, even tho it's a no-no with gaskets, the butle seals just fine and they slide in much easier. and a pointed nosed pliers or channel lock to grab the ears and pull them inward. HTH's. Good luck, they can still be a bugger unless you do them on a regular basis!

Thanks for all the insight!