I am currently redoing portions of my 1926 Star 4 restoration which was begun in 1975 ( not a typo ). Career and life required a move, at which time the car was put into storage about two months away from being finished. Needless to say time in a dusty mini storage was not kind. I have the engine and trans out for detailing and I am uneasy about the way the engine was originally mounted. This car has a solid mounted engine ( not the later rubber mounts ). It seems to me that this arrangement would put a strain on the brittle cast iron block mounts potentially causing cracks when the frame twists. I've thought about putting 1/8" rubber pads under the mounting points, and not tightening the bolts to the point of compressing the rubber, this would relieve some of the stress on these mounts when the frame twists which I am sure it will to a point. Anybody have any ideas about this? I did replace the plate with the front motor mounts due to cracks when I rebuilt the engine. Input would be welcome.
Where Are You From? Denver
Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 Star m 4dr sedan
There are many ways to do it. Look up "shock and vibration isolation". The problem is that
industrial stuff is expensive. You should have a sandwich of rubber-like material above and
below the tang sticking out from the engine. The cover, which may be a large washer, should be
cinched down against a hard sleeve, for example, so that the bolt can be tightened. [This is how a typical Ford motor mount works.] If a bolt is left loose in such an application, it will soon fall off. A small piece of channel steel that fits over the top of the rubber and rests on the frame can also be snugged down hard. The later-style engine mount seemed to work, so you can
use its proportions.