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My First Question

Hello all, just recently joined the club and thought I would introduce myself and my car. To those of you who were in Vancouver B.C. last year I have purchased Franz Fraitzl's project Star with the hopes of completing the restoration. I have made up new sills from old patterns and my question is the following:
Were the sills undercut to sit flat on the frame rails? There are a number of rivets protruding about 3/16" above the frame flanges. I could easily counterbore the bottom of the sills for rivet head clearance but this would result in the running board splash aprons being pinched tight between the sill and the frame flange. The body would have to be loosened and raised off the frame to facilitate removal for repair. I am thinking perhaps there should be spacers or welting of some sort to raise the sills slightly? Thanks in advance for your input. Cheers, Martyn Hough

Where Are You From? Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 Star Model M Touring

Re: My First Question

Hello Martyn,

I was at the Vancouver meet for a coupla days, so yes I saw your Star and it looked like Franz was doing a nice job on it's restoration...Welcome to our club...Hey, I'm thinking that most of our Star/ Durants are similar with installing the sills and splash apron where the splash apron is in fact sandwitched tight between the sill and frame, with my Durants and other makes I counterbore the sill to clear the frame rivets, then use that self stick peal-back web body cloth that comes in 1 1/2" rolls (model A suppliers) punch out holes for rivets and body bolts and stick that down to the frame, then the splash guard, than the body, I think if needed the splash guard can be shifted slightly by loosning the body bolts and lifting body. My two cents.

Bill

Where Are You From? Yuma, AZ / Leavenworth , WA

Do You own a car built by Durant? A-22 / D 40 / 25 Flint

Re: My First Question

Thanks very much for your comments. I have the Parts Book for the '26 M Star and there is no mention of spacers or frame welting yet radiator and cowl lacing is noted along with dimensions. They must have used some sort of anti-squeak material to avoid metal to metal rubbing as you suggested. Unless otherwise advised I plan to follow your method. Thanks again.

Where Are You From? Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 Star Model M Touring

Re: My First Question

Martyn: I own a Durant D75 and I have done a through inspection of the frame rail tops, patterned marks on the mating part of the splash aprons, and the somewhat rotted sill boards. I have determined that it did not come from the factory with any sort of frame rail webbing. The original sill boards are slotted and/or counterbored to allow the clearances for rivets on the frame rails. I am still working on the body frame wood work and am undecided yet if I will install webbing on the frame rails.

Where Are You From? Hyattsville Md

Do You own a car built by Durant? Yes

Re: My First Question

I've removed the body from my frame and with my car there was evidence of a thin webbing between the body and the frame. When I replace mine I will use the same material that they sell for the Model A. You can get it from Mac's online.

Where Are You From? Oviedo, Florida

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1928 Durant Model 65

Re: My First Question

Based on the helpful comments above, I have counerbored the sills for rivet head clearance. I plan to install frame welt to avoid metal-to-metal chaffing even though it appears the various factories were not consistant in doing so. I can now move forward with the project. Until my next question --thanks again to all! Cheers, Martyn

Where Are You From? Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 Star Model M Touring

 

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