Well I replaced head gasket about 3 weeks (or 300 miles) ago....
Followed all directives, as received in previous thread on subject, and (after consistent checking) head bolts were holding 70 lbs no problem prior to last weekend. Last weekend the engine did 200 miles (including hills) with no problems.
Yesterday, on the way to the Harmon Valley Rodeo (40 miles), I noticed heating up and stopped and checked water.. No overheating involved as I was being diligent in watching temp. A gallon or so was needed and the oil needle (on float in pan) was rising.
I hobbled home.......
I have takeen the head off again and can see evidence of water getting into my 3rd cylinder. Gasket is not damaged but I feel I can see where water was passing.
I have checked the head with a straight edge and a feeler gauge and it shows no worpage.
My questions :
The original head gasket I took out of this engine seemed to be steel with inside padding.
The replacement gaskets I have been getting are coppper with inside padding.
Is there a distinct difference between these two types of head gaskets?
(I want to try putting back original steel, it was not damaged in engine teardown.)
Howdy Guy!
My take on gaskets and torques is that it is OK to reuse a gasket if it is still flat and undamaged and mating surfaces are perfectly clean and true.
Re-torquing should not be required if all threads are in perfect shape. If you have an instance of a stud "losing torque" it just means something is striping.
Now, if water is entering the combustion chamber then air is also entering the "water chamber" and you will definitely see bubbles in the radiator filler neck.
If not, water must be entering the oil somewhere else.
Clean the mating surfaces again, use a new gasket, assemble, and torque to the high end and run. I have heard of spraying a head gasket with silver paint but I'm not sure what benefit that would accomplish. Later. if you notice any "lost torque", remove all cylinder head studs, heli coil all the stud holes and replace studs and nuts.
Well found a hole in the block allowing water into the oil.... never was a head gasket problem.
On inside of block just between the 3rd and 4th cylinder was a circular hole in the block (seems that flakes of rust have been on and off the hole and thus giving me my intermittent water loss etc).
The hole could be seen from the top, through a water jacket, of the unheaded block and from bottom where valves meet the block.
AN old timer machinist came by and examined the situation... said it was fixable....
long drill to drill out hole from the top...
tap to thread from the bottom....
then A CAST IRON TAPERED PLUG..to screw in snuggly.
Ha the block is fixed....
Thanks Don and Frank, you boys are always good at "kick starting" me
Did about 100 miles, today, on plugged block today things ran well with no water loss.. steady eddy at 35 mph...feels like the steady throb and low rev of a marine engine....
Re: Ha ... I have learned about block stitching !!!
Hallelujah!!!!
It's always a good feeling when you solve a problem like this. We'll probably be seeing more of this sort of failure as our engines are passing the 90 year mark.
Matter of fact, Methinks this calls for you to write this up as a story in the Durant Partner along with the other problems you have encountered and what you did to fix them.