The W5 in my Star is acting strange these days. The only way I can start it is to fully retard the spark and to have the choke on. This is true even when the engine is hot. The other day, I drove it 20 miles, shut it off and tried to start it immediately. It still needed to be choked. Once started, I have to stop choking and advance the spark right away.

I've got a new zenith carb and new plugs. Compression is fine.

Anyone got any ideas?

Where Are You From? North of San Francisco

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star

Vince,

Have you checked for spark when your engine doesn't start? Often a close point gap, worn distributor bushing or a not grounded breaker plate or the distributor ground itself can cause weird problems and by moving the advance leaver the spark will temporarly restore itself...Did your problem start when you first installed the new Zenith or later?
Bill

Where Are You From? Leavenworth, Wa / Yuma, AZ

Do You own a car built by Durant? 29 Model 40 Coupe / 23 A-22 Touring

Thanks for the reply.

I have spark but then I could have bumped something. Next time I'll try moving the lever without choking the engine.

The car started fine for a while after I installed the Zenith carb. Somewhere along the line the main jet got way out so that gas was dripping out the carb. This started about the same time. I've got it back to normal now but the choke-to-start problem remains.

Where Are You From? North of San Francisco

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star

On Your Zenith carb....

What is your speed when travelling 20 miles (personel interest... mine seems happy at 34-37 mph)

What is the color of plugs ?
What is the color of inside of exhaust pipe ?
Did the car ever backfire, from carburator or exhaust ?

Is it a Zenith B with a gas adjusting valve ? I.E. "The Power Jet Circuit" ?

and if so how many turns (1/4 turns) do you have it at (when travelling ? when idling ?)

Tweeking this aspect of my driving has greatly enhanced my Star's performance on given road conditions and speeds and hills etc.

Guy

The car can cruise smoothly at 35 to 38 mph. I was on a freeway so I had to keep it at 45 mph on level ground. At that point, it was shaking my fillings out. Not sonething I should do often.

I have a "main jet" that is adjustable. Somehow it got out a lot and gas was dripping out of the air intake. All of the plugs fouled. I replaced the plugs and set the jet according to the instructions. Started at 2 1/2 turns out, at 3/4 throttle turned it in until it started to fade, then backed it out 1/2 turn. Now, if anything, it's a little lean. However, after running it for 40 miles, there is carbon on the bottom of the threads but none on the ceramic or electrodes.

Where Are You From? North of San Francisco

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star

Vince...
The screw you are playing is just the idle screw. And I agree with your methodology.
But A jet valve is a separate item located on side and outside of carb casing. It has the funniest 1/2 sunking moon shaped connector and requires a special piece for adjusting. The model A had a rod directly to dash for that jet valve and talking to old Ford drivers, this valve on a Zenith B required constant fiddling for changing road conditions.

Guy

I don't think I'm adjusting the idle needle. I have a Zenith 68 series that I got from Frank Witkoski. It has two brass adjusting needles. The schematic labels one as the "idle adjusting needle" and the other as the "main jet adjusting needle. It's the later that I have been adjusting.

I'm going to check the dwell and coil next.

Where Are You From? North of San Francisco

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star