A short while back i posted a thread discussing some chrome work that I had done. In short I was really unpleased with the result. I contacted the shop and let them know my feelings. I was asked to bring back the pieces. Well, life has been busy but I now have a free moment once again. One problem was said to be caused by rivets left in the metal. I was asked to remove them. I can't say this was the only spot that looked like paint over rusty metal (texture wise), I really think this was lazy bad work but we will see. So here is the question with pictures to the places of reference. Should I remove these rivets or should the plater be able to deal with them? If I should remove them then how so? I will admit I tried removing one on the radiator shell already by grinding the back side then tried tapping it out to no avail. The headlight buckets have the bottom plate that should be removed. I would like to replace the bolts also. I marked on the pictures to show the exact place I'm referring to. You can also see the chrome job quite well represented here. I would like to take the pieces in tomorrow.

Where Are You From? Oregon

Do You own a car built by Durant? 6-14; M-2

Hey Shaun,

To me it looks like the plater simply has not done all (or any) of the prep work. Yes rivets are hard to polish around, but not impossible. I don't feel the parts were even close to being ready for the nickel then chrome stages. The question I have, where they done at a Custom Chrome shop or a production shop. They are two very different places. Call me when you get a chance.

Where Are You From? Canada

Shaun... My experience with plating is that the rivets need to be removed for the best results. When it comes to the headlamp brkts, We always ground the backs completely and then set a socket just larger than the rivet over the outside for support before tapping them out... carefully. If this doesn't work... grind a flat on the outside of the rivet then center punch them and drill them out.
Most model "A" stores have headlamp replacement stainless rivets available with threads on the backside for nuts.

Frank Witkowski of this club probably carries them. I'd have these in hand before removing the others. Look for his name on this forum and you'll get his e-mail. Might also be able to use these elsewhere.

Hope this helps... Jim G.

Where Are You From? Ohio

Do You own a car built by Durant? Flint 80

The pitting on the outside is just bad prep work. The rust on the inside is sloppiness. If you don't remove the rivets, there will be rust under the rivet that could "leak" out. Chrome plating is an acidic process.

My plater did a good job of plating with the rivets in place but at some point, the rust will show. For best results, remove the rivets. MAC's model T catalog has a tool that centers a drill bit over a 3/16" round head rivet used for drilling them out. (See page 159 of the latest catalog.)

Where Are You From? North of San Francisco

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star