When I removed the head from my w-4 engine off my 23 Star, there were no washers on the head studs. Some of them buggers (nuts) were pretty tuff to get off due to the fact that a few of them had actually sunk into the metal of the head.

I am assuming I should use a washer when putting everything back together again.

What to use? #8 washer, stainless steel, brass?

Any suggestions or opinions?

Thanks again
Tony

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1923 Star Touring

don't use washers.

Really, is that the way it was originally?

I read a previous post that suggested using a washer? The post just didn't suggest what exactly to use.

In the post dated 1-6-07 under the heading "Re: Cylinder head studs:

CDMN writes "Generally you use a "hardened" steel washer when the material under it is "soft". Especially the softer aluminums. For a cast iron cylinder head, it's possible the iron is harder than the ordinary hardware store washer. This kind of washer could be worse than no washer. A hard one couldn't hurt, if it will lie flat on the boss.

Hard washers not only protect the softer metal, but they help keep the bolt tight by not letting it sink in. It also makes torquing more consistent."

I want to stay original, so if no washers were used originally, unless the concensus is to use them, I will keep to the original configuration.

Anyone else have any input on this?

Thanks,
Tony

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1923 Star C Touring

According to the parts book there are no washers called for use with the head bolt nuts.
However, if the head bolt hole shoulder is deformed from repeated tightenings, I would mill the hole flat and maybe use a suitable steel washer to make up the difference, and use a new stud nut.fpg6

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1923 Star C touring, 1927 Star M coupe