I had the engine for my 23 Durant rebuilt in 1975 and it has never been cranked. Just a spit or fire occasionally.
My problem is that only turns over adequately when all the spark plugs are removed. Put one plug in and it will not turn over fast enough to crank.
It has a brand new battery (6 volt)and I am using a battery charger to support the battery to keep it from running down.
Thought possibly could be the starter, but the man said the starter checked out OK and that was not my problem.
Sometime ago Rick and I talked about the tightness of the engines rebuilt in the 60' and 70's and that pulling the car down the road might lossen it up and get started while pulling. I have tried this before om other cars with good success.
Have any of you had similar problems getting yours cranked or turning over?? Any suggestions??

Yates

Hi Yates,

For starters I think that I would take the plugs out and squirt about 3 or 4 pumps of clean engine oil in each cylinder, then if you have that little 1/8" pipe plug that sets on top of your engine oil pump, remove it and pump a bunch in there...Your engine has been setting long enough that the cylinders and rings are probably dry and possiably a little rust may be forming in the cylinder walls, also your oil pump has probably lost its prime and by priming the oil pump you could get lubercation on downstream to your bearings....Crank the engine with the spark plus out and see if there is an improvement, if so put a little priming gas in each cylinder and if all is well it should light off right away....I have seen on my A-22 that grease can get on the commitator and brushes in the starter from the rear starter bearing, if this happens than the starter has absolutly no torque, (as I recall)if this is the case then you will need to remove the rear bearing plate and squirt some electric motor cleaner on the commitator and brushes...If you suspect that your engine bearings are tight I would not start the engine until you know the reason, you could do dammage to both the bearings and the crank...Not enough piston ring end gap is another sourse for a tight engine but usually more noticable when the engine warms up...Check out the simple things first and let us know how you make out....Bill

Do You own a car built by Durant? A-22 Touring

Yates,
Can you get a Compression gauge reading on the cylinders when you crank it (or try to?).

This will give you an indication of your compression in each cylinder and if it is excessive. If it is too excessive use a thicker head gasket, or if need be get a new head (not shaved as much).

Otherwise it will just be (most likely)tightness of the rings, or bearings. Your motor should turn-over with moderate (i.e. slightly firm) resistance with the plugs out using a large wrench or 1/2" inch breaker bar, or using a hand crank.

If not the obvious fix for this is to pull the head so you can very lightly Hone the cylinders first, then try it again. It should now be Okay.

If not pull the engine down and check the ring gaps, and Reset the the ring gaps (maybe insufficient gaps there?; Check your Ring Specs for numbers). If the rings gap are Okay; go on to the lower end.

If the Crank won't turn easily (with the Pistons/Rods disconnected); your crank bearings are too tight. Check with Plastic-gauge and lightly ream (one or more of) the Crank bearings (you want 2 to 3 thousands clearance). The crank should turn easily/smoothly. Untill you get only no or very little drag while turning the crank by hand.

If Okay; next check the Rod bearings. If too tight on the crank lightly ream them, again looking for 2 to 3 thousands clearance.

If you can't get Plastic gauge into a Crank/Rod bearing to check it, use an Inside/Outside Mic. What you are looking for is about 2 to 3 Thousands clearance on the bearings.

Hope this helps you out.
Lance C.

Do You own a car built by Durant? 26 Locomobile JR-8 Sedan and 26 JR-8 Roadster project, 30 Durant 410 Special Deluxe 4Dr.

Most likely a bad electrical connection. Leave the plugs out, squirt some oil in like others have said. Then crank for a while. 12 volts on the starter post won't hurt it. Don't use the starter button, because that will put 12 volts into the other stuff. Not good. Disconnect the starter completely if you want to be sure. Don't overheat the starter.

I had a tight tractor. Had to roll start it with just one sparkplug in it. It ran easy after about 5-10 minutes of break-in. I'm sure it was the new rings dragging on the freshly crisscrossed honing in the cylinder sleeves.

Do You own a car built by Durant? yes

Thanks to all of you for the advice and suggestions.
Will start Monday AM going down the list. Will post what I find in hopes of helping others...

Yates

Did you check the valve adjustments to make sure they are working.

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 STAR

I've got the same symptoms, but I can turn the flywheel by hand (slowly). Is 12V direct on the starter actually safe for it? If so that might be an effective way to turn it over (briefly!) while feeding 6v to the coil, and see if I can get it to fire...

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1928 M2

Hi Mike,
Thanks for your suggestion. Have traced it back to the carburator. Been too cold and I have been to lazy to finish. I will start back in March.

Your Durant Partner

Yates

Responding to John Brunstein's question: 12V on the starter usually won't hurt it. As an electric motor turns it generates a thing called back electromotive force (Back EMF). The faster it turns, the more back EMF. This keeps the amperage from going off the charts and burning up the starter.

The starter will turn faster with more torque and thus generate more heat. Thus, you don't want to lay on the starter for a long time. If the insulation is breaking down, the higher voltage may find a path to ground but this would be inevitable with 6 volts.

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star