I recall seeing a plan on how to build a puller for the rear wheels of my D65. I have no idea where I saw it. If anybody had can help I would be very thankful
I have a 25 star, not sure if they would use the same puller or not. but at one time same some plans for building one that used the end off an old grease gun, the threads are the same. A hole was drilled in the end, a nut welded on and a blot ran through it to pull the wheel off, did not long very strong to me, so bought one off Ebay, that did not work as my wheel were super stuck. I ended up taking things apart and using a three jaw axel puller with bolts through the rear of the drum, to puch against the axel. Good luck
I made one from the plans using the cap off an old grease gun and just wasted my time. Mine were on so tight I had to use heat to remove them. The good thing about the grease gun cap is that it is a good pattern for size and thread for someone to machine one. Glenn
If you want to see what a wheel puller looks like, go to item 300184076733 on eBay. The ad says it is for a Ford TT truck, but the principle is the same. Seems to me there was instructions in an early Durant magazine in how to have one made.
If you do make one, just make sure to have the threads on the bolt to be fine and not coarse. The bigger the bolt the better and stronger.
Thx ken I knew I had seen the wheel puller someplace on the site but for the life of me I couldn't find it. Its off to the machine shop tommorrow.
Lawrence
I have a rear wheel knock-off-tool that I bought for my Model T's. It is a large nut that goes on the axle after you remove the castle nut. Just jack up the rear wheel and after screwing on the knock off tool, use a large mallet to hit the knock off tool. It works on the Model t's and is the same size and treads as my 1924 Star. I had no problem in removing the rear hubs on the Star although I suppose if they are really rusted on it may take a little more coaxing.
I bought the tool several years ago through a Model T/A catalog.
Good luck.
These "knock off" type pullers will work, because the hub and axle are a tapered fit, once you jar it loose the hub will not be held by the taper.
The thread on our axles is 5/8 x 11, and I have these pullers for $3.00 plus shipping. They are worth a try , and keep you from damaging your threads.
The puller that screws onto the hub cap threads and has a screw to push aganist the axle is a much better one to use, but you have to either find an old one or have a new one made.
Frank ---
Do You own a car built by Durant? 13 Durant & Star cars & a Durant-Dort buggy
The usual way to loosen tapered fits, such as ball joints, etc., is to have an "anvil" on one side and then hit the opposite side with a heavy hammer. (I'm talking about at right angles to the axle.) The puller just creates a small amount of the tension needed, and kind of lets you know that it came loose. The engineering theory is that if you can loosen friction in one direction, it loosens it in all directions. True. Thats why something slides easier if you twist it at the same time, or why your car will slide sideways if the wheels are spinning.
Old Packards also had tapered axles and hubs. You jacked the opposite side up, putting all the weight on the wheel you want to loosen, and then hit the axle end with a solid thump.. You protect the threads with a special "nut". Where I worked, they often used lead hammers which delivered heavy blows without causing much contact damage.