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Just about to reinstall my motor which is now rebuilt into the restored frame, just a few questions, I noted from the tech page rear end fluid is 600wt oil. how about trans fluid?, and motor oil? from where the car was stored I found a pair of NOS rear shocks, missing fronts. thankyou for any info
Whoops, email is firstname.lastname@example.org
I use the 600W oil in the trans, rear end and steering box on my old cars (even the ones that aren't Durant or Star) I do keep this oil in stock.
For your motor oil use what the rebuilder suggests.
Hope this helps.......Frank ---
Do You own a car built by Durant? A dozen Durant & Star cars & a Durant Dort buggy
In my rear end and transmission, I use SAE 180 gear oil and split a can of STP between the two as well.
In my original equipment front shocks, I find that ATF does a decent job. I've considered motorcycle fork oil but find ATF works well.
In my engine, a W-8, I've been using SAE 30 HD
Where Are You From? www.ronjpics.com/durantstuff.htm
Do You own a car built by Durant? 1930 4-07
re-posted from a previous posting.
Just thought I'd post a recent reply I received from a tech man from Red Line Oil. I've used the oil and transmission fluid in my TR6 and was inquiring from them the chemists and technical people about using it in the Durant/Continental motors. Here's his reply:
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, I am very familiar with the Model A and the Durant is likely similar in a number of respects. Originally a 30W oil was used for summer use, a lower viscosity 10W or 20W for winter months.
With todays oils a 10W40 is similar viscosity to a straight 30W at moderate temperatures, a little lower at low temperatures and higher at higher temperatures. This seems to be a very good all around viscosity for these engines and the product I use it in our various Model A engines.
The engine in the Victoria uses a full pressurized crank and full flow oil filter. The other engines use splash lubrication and both are fitted with bypass oil filters.
For any engine, either with a filter or without, I would recommend a detergent oil. Originally non detergent oils were the only thing available, that has changed, today very few non detergent oils are available, those that are available generally are not high quality products and don't contain a complete additive package or a high quality base stock. A detergent oil will offer substantial benefits and advantages over a non detergent product. A detergent oil can be used in an engine without a filter, the detergent is still beneficial keeping the engine clean, holding contaminates in suspension and neutralizing acids, without a filter the oil should be just changed a little more frequently. If an engine has been operated for a years with a non detergent oil if a thick layer, a jell has build up in the pan and valve chamber, I would remove this before switching to a detergent oil.
With your rebuilt engine I would recommend seating the rings with a petroleum oil before switching over to our synthetic oil. Some of the currently available oils don't contain sufficient anti-wear additives for flat tappet camshafts, to be certain I would seat the rings and break in the engine with a good quality diesel engine oil, these will typically contain a good robust additive package with good anti-wear protection. Once the rings have seated, allowing 1500 to 2000 miles, I would recommend using our 10W40. A synthetic oil can and is being used very successfully in these older type engines.
Red Line Oil
Do You own a car built by Durant? Almost
I have a "Durant - Frontenac" Owners Reference Book and It lists "Correct Lubrication" for these cars.
Transmission - Summer - Heavy Body Oil -SAE No 50
- Winter - Medium Body Oil - SAE No 40
Rear Axle - Summer Heavy Body Oil SAE No 50
- Winter Medium Body Oil SAW No 40
Also says to check each after every 1500 miles.
I will get you a photocopy of this book if you wish.
Do You own a car built by Durant? Frontenac