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Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Finally got the 30 Durant engine running but I have a knock in the engine.
My questions are:
1. Did the conecting rods have inserts or were they poured?
2. Have any of you ever used "Slick 50" and if so what kind of results did you get?

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Yates

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Yates--
I have a 1930 six --the bearings are poured , Both main and con rod
I used slick 50 once --in a 71 chev impala --My opinion is that it was not worth the price --
Ken

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Thanks Ken... Just finished putting Slick 50 in the car and you are right, it is not worth the money. Reckon I'll go for a rebuild on the engine at a later date. Will check the bearings tomorrow.

Yates

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Hi Yates.
I have worked on plenty of the 22A engines and they are a good engine. First question I have how much oil pressure and did you clean the pan out after all these years and change the exterior oil filter. The mains do have a over lay type removable insert but the rods are poured and bored to fit. Also I do not use additives or modern multi weight oils as they have fillers and upon testing they are thin and we notice a big difference in the inside engine noise. The factory calls for set weight 40 weight oil and after a bunch of wear we always use a set weight 50 Pennzoil heavy duty. Has been working great for us for a long time. We have rods, mains, cranks. Pistons, wrist pins etc available if you need anything. Special pricing for founding president. Good luck. Later Lance

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Hi Mr President,
The engine when idling maintains 30 psi. With just a little gas it will rise to 50 psi. Did not realize that 40 wt oil was factory spec. Will let you know what the 50 wt oil does to this engine. Now, please let me know how to adjust the clutch.
Thanks a million....

Yates

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Hi Yates,
In regard to your engine knock have you tryed shorting each spark plug out with an insulated handled screwdriver to see if you can pinpoint if infact that the knock is a rod bearing, if you have a rod knocking generaly it will quiet down when that cylinder is shorted out. Also, is the knock at crankshaft speed or at camshaft speed, if the knock is half engine speed than your knock could be in the valve train, a loose key in a timing gear, broken valve spring, timing chain slapping the cover or ect...one other knock that comes to mind is a forked or douple knock and that is generaly piston slap (loose piston)...You might check with member Bruce Harrigan as Bruce has a knock in his newly rebuilt engine, we came to the conclusion over the weekend that his noise was not a rod bearing...Anyway, just a couple of thoughts...Bill

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Hi Yates.
I’m sorry but I forgot to answer your question about adjusting the 1930 and 31 Durant clutches. They are different than the older cars. There is a dual pronged device with adjusting bolts in each end between the clutch and brake pedals under the car and on the common clutch shaft that goes into the side of the bell housing and operates the clutch. That device should have fairly long square headed adjusting bolts about ¼” in size and you turn one out and the other in to change your clutch setting. There is a tab sticking off the side of the actual clutch pedal and is in-between the two adjusting bolts. It makes the whole shaft rotate. The pedals just side on and use the shaft to pivot on it. A very ingenious design really. A little confusing to look at but it works. Hope this helps you. I can take some pictures if you need them. Later Lance

Re: Knocking Problem in 6 cyl. 22A Engine

Thanks to all for your responses..... I learned a great deal and hope others benefited also.

Yates

 

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