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Haven't needed help since March 04.
I have a 23 star I bought in pieces.
Have just finished rivioting on spring eyes and rear braces that were removed for bushing and rewelding so now I can begin with mounting some body panels.
Question 1, The front gard mounts to the chassis rail at two points, the rear, which appears to be flat panel, and the front inner gard strut which is contured and not flat.Is there any spacer or dampening blocks mounted between the bottom gard strutt and chassis rail?
Question 2, How does the rear gard mount? the holes in the rear inner gard flange are larger than any chassis hole and nothing appers to lie up with the front appart from the sill panel.
Question 3, Does the sill panel mount to timber on top of the chassis rails? Is this one piece with the floor?
Question 4, Should there be timber on the chassis rail below the cover panel that incorporates the mounts for the engine covers and flows down to the front spring eye?
Thanks for now, Wayne.
Wayne, I've had considerable experience with the 22-23 "C" models and am presently in the process of an ongoing restoring on one. The first thing we need to do is clarify the terminology differences between ya'll 'aussies; and us 'yanks'!!
I'm not sure what you are referring to as a "Gard" (front,rear,strut). Could you be more detailed and lets see if we can get you reassembled.
Anybody out there maybe can do some interpreting?
Thanks for your reply, my wife corected my spelling to "guard" or fender, as in the beautifully curved arches of steel that cover the wheels and support the side running boards.
The "strut" is the pressed steel support that is rivioted inside the wheel arch to maintain its position and shape.
OK, Now we're talkin' Turkey!
Question 1: No, the front fender brace is bolted solid to the frame rail.
Question 2: The rear fender mounts to the side of the body.The holes are a bit larger to allow for slight missalignment with the body holes. The rear, lower portion of the fender is mounted to the frame rail by a stand-off spacer about 3" long. There is also an inside, front brace, that helps suppord and stiffen the running board.
Question 3: The body wood frame consists of a base sill from whence all vertical members are attached. These are on both sides, extend the length of the body, and are bolted to the frame. The front and rear seat pans also attach to these sills and are major support members.
Question 4: No. The sill timber stops at the firewall. Everything forward of that is attached solid to the frame.
Before you can mount any body panels, you have to build the wooden framework that the panels will mount to. Unless you have really good original patterns, this will be a very tedious chore, accomplished by much trial and error work. Use a clean, cheap wood to make your trial pieces. Around here, that's generally White Pine.
You,ve got quite a job ahead of you. Keep in touch and ask LOTS of questions!!
Question 4, Does the bonnet catch bolt to the cover panel? There are no holes in the chassis rail and therefore the cover panel would sit in a raised position unsupported.
Wayne, The Hood(bonnet)latches have a spring on the underside of where they mount thru holes in the top frame rail. On later models there is what is called a "hood shelf" that fits on top of the frame rail but the "C" models do not have this part.
Which body style are you working with?
Hi Don, I asked other questions on the forum page , could you answer?
How thick should the running board timber be? Is it rubber covered? Does the side valance panel fit to it with nails or screws?
Are there any modern style engine bearings available in the USA?
My web page doesnt update imediately so I have only just seen your response, thanks
Wayne down under.
Hi Wayne.The running boards are all 3/4" wood and do come from the factory with a rubber covering and the sheet metal frame rail kick covers nail into the edge although we always use a small wood screw. Our engines all have poured babbitt bearings in them so we don't have any replacement bearings. Sorry. Good luck on your car. Later Lance
I was hoping for a cheaper alternative to the babbit bearings, not so.I have noticed the running boards have a metal trim around the perimiter. Is this standard,Wayne
Wayne: I get to answer this from England so here goes. The edgeing is standard for your car. I have redone all of my cars using kitchen counter edgeing. I found that when you try and use the old edgeing it tends to fall apart.
Sounds like a cheap solution, I dont like silver or crome though, have you seen them black?
You might find it useful to contact David Cornell re your bearings and other motor work. His phone number is 02 60255271 Albury NSW
Having available pictures from my father's car a 1928 M2 I can say that the edgings of the running boards in that model where not black.
I solved the problem with a sheet metal shop that made the requested profile in stainless steel dull finish sheet.
Thanks for that, I will try him during the holiday break. Im so busy leading into xmas.
Hows your car going? Im just making a new cowl panel and looking at the wood work.
You have a Coupe? Mine's a tourer.
Do you know any other "Rugby" owners in Australia?
Have you got any pitcures?
Wayne down under.
Hi,I live Grose Vale NSW and I have a 1929 Rugby ute (I think it was a roadster) that I will be restoring back to a roadster. The project will take a couple of years as there is lots to do. I would like to acqire a roadster body but I think I will have to make one. I would like to keep in touch with you about your project.
Merry Xmas, Ross
I am currently working on restoring a 1929 Rugby ute. It is a genuine ute and not a converted tourer. I have most of the mechanical done except the chassis which I hope to start on sometime in the new year. I would be keen to keep in touch throughout your restoration.
Just mechanicals to go?
How have you progressed with the body timber?
Have you documented work so far?
Wayne, next door.
I would love to just have the mechanicals to do! Unfortunately its the other way round. I have done most of the mechanicals, except the chassis. Once the chassis is done I can bolt all the other bits on to make a rolling chassis, and then start on the body. Not a lot to document at the moment.
Call any time with questions,
do you need anything.
I have a ute roof, not serten if it is a cut down version from the tourer that was originally my car.