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Have any of you had a problem putting an FW3250 Heated WS in a 2014 Sonata? The original WS was not heated, but the only way to buy it in the aftermarket (at least within 100 miles of here) is heated. No one stocks it the other way. I set the glass yesterday morning and it broke before I could get the mouldings put on. Just want to make sure it doesn't happen again.
The windshield had to have a small run in it before hand. I've had windshields with severe chips/clams on the edge and I tried to see if I could break the shield, by applying pressure to both sides and majority of time, I could not get it to run.
Or the urethane you used had rocks or diamonds in it. LOL.
Ooops...
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess you jumped the cowl, mate. There's several blokes at my shop who do this and we've seen "stress cracks" on heated Hyundai screens because of it. What happens is the urethane bead gets smeared, the heating lead ends up sitting too close to the body, and the glass cracks near the VIN. Sound about right?
How in the hell do you stuff a windshield with a heating element that goes under the cowl? Oh that's right it was not originally heated... did you cut the wire? Is the non heated a 3239??? if so we do them all the time no issues.. ever
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess you jumped the cowl, mate. There's several blokes at my shop who do this and we've seen "stress cracks" on heated Hyundai screens because of it. What happens is the urethane bead gets smeared, the heating lead ends up sitting too close to the body, and the glass cracks near the VIN. Sound about right?
That is probably the case on other installs. But, he said the glass broke BEFORE he put the moldings on. He never finished the job and surely the heat could not have been turned on, because it was not originally heated.
Ooops...
But after a thorough examination I think Expat is correct. I ran a small bead on it and it looks like the heating wire--harness--thingee was perilously close to the pinchweld. When I patted the glass down to ensure good adhesion I probably made the problem worse.
I've redone the job now, ran a much taller bead, and haven't seen any issues yet and it's been nearly twenty-four hours.
Just a word to the wise, keep the bead thick and high across the bottom if you're using a heated glass.
What kind of glue are you using that you are having to cut a nozzle? If you used Express or Sika you should never have to cut a tip. I always go with the standard cut, has yet to fail me...
Everyone always assumes the worst case scenario...
What kind of glue are you using that you are having to cut a nozzle? If you used Express or Sika you should never have to cut a tip. I always go with the standard cut, has yet to fail me...
Everyone always assumes the worst case scenario...
PS AGN gimme your $40 credit ;)
You use the same size bead on a VW Jetta as you do on a Chevy Express, Ford Econoline, DW1451 and DW1494, REALLY??
Ooooooooops...
For most installs this time of year I run U-418HV. The tips don't come pre-cut and even if they did I would cut and adjust the height based on the vehicle. That's what I did here. Most Hyundais aren't sitting on large beads from the factory, so I ran a small one.