http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=28

Just wondering , has anyone here used this inductor? If you have what did you think?

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I'm intrigued by the product... affordable, clean w/o damage to glass or body. I'm just affraid if I get one and start bringing it into the body shops I go to, they will see how it works and get one themselves... I'll soon be doing less work. Then again I don't charge enough for my R&I's as it is... I have seen a few parts with charred pieces of headliner or deck lid attatched to the glass, but one of the guy's I talked to at the inductor said it was due to improper use...

We had one for a while.

It works but........

We were afraid to use it on a new car for fear of burning the headliner. It really heats up the metal under the glass to release the adhesive.

I sold it to a wrecking yard who loves it for removing bonded quarter glasses without damaging the encapsulation.

Of course, they don't worry about the headliner.

If anything i would like to know how it works on rear sliders.

I hear ya on that rear slider thing. I'm thinking it might be a way to get the Dodge Ram slders out without nearly killing yourself or the truck.

I believe the jury is still out on this one for auto glass installers. No one has put in writing that there is no adverse damage to the E-coat, paint or body seam degradation.
And if you have ANY metal object on or in your person it will burn you.

Salvage yards good - Autoglass bad

I own one and love it.
We never use it on a W/shield though because it destroys the E-coat in at least some places.
Works good on some things and not on others, Dodge (and other sliders that are very thick) No.
The electric field doesn't get close enough to the pinchweld to be effective.
Sometimes these can be done from the inside, but the interior must be removed.
We carry a little fan and fire extinguisher with our kit due to the toxic fumes sometimes caused, and the poss. of starting a fire.
We let the body shop know that the paint will be burnt in at least some places, they must remove and replace the interior, The price is double the usual R&I, and there is still no guarantee of saving the part.
Also; BE CAREFULL AROUND SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAGS!
We have saved some very expensive parts, and charged accordingly. (Heroes once again)
Good luck, It takes some practice but works well.

Pinky, what about melting wires, or an airbag harness that is conceled in one of the pillar posts. Even you say it destroys the E-coat, is it worth the risk and expense?
And you have to be a fireman because you have to carry a fire extinguisher. Who pays for the damage if you are doing one mobile, I am not saying you are using one on mobile jobs, just a concern to evaluate. To many risks for the average glass installer.

Good point.
We really only use it in a body shop setting, and yes, it is not for every installer. I personnaly use it for removals and my employees will return to replace the part when the time comes.

I guess my question is WHY ARE YOU DOING R&I or R&R as some call it, in the first place???

What adhesive manufacturer has provided you written application instructions permitting use of their urethane and primers with salvaged glass?

I have tested and used the Inductor (Glass Blaster) for the past two years. It works well on tempered parts but I will not use it on the windshield. The easiest way to use it is to have two men, one running the Blaster and one inside appling pressure. This makes the removal much faster. If one man is the only option, use a suction cup on the outside and pull while the tool is used.

Make sure that anything touching the pinchweld is removed or displaced. Nothing touch the glass will burn but anything touching the metal will burn or melt. Remove jewelry. Make sure the glass is clean so the tool does not scratch the glass you're trying to save. Start the tool in one of the corners that is accessable to the inside man. To eliminate the paint being burned, use a spray bottle of water and sprinkle the outside molding and adjoining paint to keep it cool. The water does not touch the floor of the pinchweld so the heat is concentrated where you want it. Once you hear a crackling sound the pressure on the glass surface can comence. Once the corner is free the rest is easy.

CCC -

It would seem that you don't do any body shop work.

If the glass is cleaned properly, what is the diference between installing a new glass and re-installing the old glass?

Not one urethane manuf. will let you mix activators.

Good point m. OK people, where is it written that manufacture A uses urethane A B or X for their vehicles???? When you pull a w/s How do you know witch brand of urethane to install the new glass you have to install in your customers vehicle?? I have never had aynone tell me what to use for GM,FORD, or any other MANUF. Do you use essex,3m,or SIKA?????

One of our largest accounts is a chain of body shops we do probably 75 or more R-N-R's a month not counting replacements. We have done this for about 8 years now and we use Essex on everything. We have never had one come back or complaint from the body shop or the vehicle owner.

Also if you clean all the glue off, clean the glass with cleaner and a scotch brite pad you should not have any problems.

We also check manufacture service bulletins and see what urethane they require to be used on the vehicles.
Most car manufactures recommend Essex or 3 M ,and you could not pay me to use 3m.

R&I is a way of life in body shops as long as insurance adjusters write estimates using Mitchell for repairs that include time for the R&I of glass. They never figure a new one unless it is already damaged.

As far as the inductor goes. I would rather damage or break one every once in a while and get a supplement than burn the e-coat on every job. The paint dept. is usually the log jam that slows production at a body shop. The less prep time you cause for the painters the more valuable you are to their operation.

Wait a minute, mr negative, I was at the AGRSS meeting and R&R's are fine as long as it is an original install. Sika & Dow(aka satan) did not have a problem with r&r's on OE installs