What do you guys charge for reseals?

Its a mobile job, but I have another install to do @ the same place.

AGN
are you saying that your going to reseal or r&i.If I R&I I charge 125.00 and we do quit a few of them.

Depends on the diffuculty of the reseal.

A bigger question is, when it's really needing a re-SET rather than a reseal, what do you do?

But that's another string topic.

To answer your question, if I can locate a leak, and it's as basic as a pinhole caused by a nitrogen bubble or something similar, and I can actually get to it from the inside without pulling the headliner to inject urethane into this simple basic pinhole...then I will charge as little as $25 bucks with no guarantee. Of course, that's not mobile.

Now, if I see ANYTHING that makes nervous about how the last job was done, (poorly), then I usually insist on a reset or don't touch it. But that's the other subject/string again.

I see these as a chance to sell the customer on quality, and if I won't touch it, they will likely go back to the person who did the poor job in the first place, this time fully informed of a safe and proper installation, and watch 'em like a hawk the second time around while they re-set it.

I call 'em like I see 'em, and if it was a good install with a leak caused by a nitrogen bubble, I tell the customer that. If it's a poor install, I explain what I see and why it's wrong, with the info of how it's done right. I never 'dis anyone, I just speak to what I can see. Consumers admire professionalism, not someone who badmouth's someone else. Likely they are already cussing themselves for going for the cheap price last time, they don't need to feel like they are being preached to.

JMHO HTH

Just as I catch on to the whole JMHO and JMHNLO, and ROTFLMAO, ROTFLMFAO along comes HTH, what is it? Guess you can tell I'm not into texting or chatting uh?

Thats a new one to me too but I would guess it means "hope that helps."

I'll have to check it out tomorrow when I get to the job. I don't know anything about the previous install because she said she bought it out west somewhere and it was leaking when she bought it. Likely its a hack job done by some lowballer at a carlot.

I've never put a WS in a Land Rover yet (thats what this is), but I'm sure they are a pain and probably expensive.

New glass on a Land Rover might be a bit more than $105. Especialy once you count the friggin' moldings that are almost $200 by themselves.

Stupid high end yuppie car!

I THOUGHT I HEARD SOMEWHERE IF YOU DO A RESEAL ON A WINDSHIELD THEN YOU ARE MARRIED TO THAT JOB ( LIABLE ) ????????????

Anyone I have ever worked for always had a disclaimer on the reseal invoice stating they were offering no guarantee and could not be held responsible for work not done by that particular shop etc etc

I'm the same way. I don't guarantee others work and I refuse to accept responsibility for it. At the customers request I will try and fix a problem if it is fixable. But thats as far as it goes.

"He who touches it last....."

I would agree. As "professionals", if you work on a job and charge for the services to correct a problem, when you give the car back to the customer, you are stating that the vehicle is safe and the problems are corrected. I would not do anything to the vehicle unless I am restoring it to FMVSS and would not charge for anything unless it has been fully repaired. This includes following our adhesive mfg (sika) guidelines to a T.
If you do not charge anything, there is no record and anyone would have a hard time putting it on you, but why work for free...

I believe Syd is correct.

Hence, my previous post about anything that would make me nervous about the previous job.

Sorry guys. From a business point of view I don't see accepting responsibility for anothers work as a good idea. If this was the rule of thumb I'd be R & Iing all reseals.

In fact if this was something other then a Land Rover I probably would R & I it...but I don't think the molding can be saved and your talking serios money to replace 'em.

I have to disagree slightly.

If you are sealing a leak by plugging up a "gap" that allows water in, without removing the glass, I don't see the need to restore the vehicle to factory specs.

If that was the case, I would think that glass repair would be illegal since it doesn't bring the car back to full OEM spec.

You cannot re-set someone elses w/shield,and conform to AGRSS standards as this is the same as a used w/s.
You don't know how it was handled or what adhesive system was used (Or partially used)

I never R&I a w/s unless it was a manufacturer installed unit, and then only if meets the criteria mandated by AGRSS. I have refused to re-install late model w/s's at body shops due to loose frit and other things. The shops sometimes don't like it, but understand when I point out the safaty issues.

If they don't cooperate, WALK AWAY from a customer you don't need!

The insurers try to mandate price, Now lets not let our customers try to tell us our biz.


As far as mldgs. being expensive.....So what,
They own a car with expensive parts and you can't help that!

You cannot compromise the install to save someone money. It just must be done properly PERIOD.

Quit thinking "old school" just keep it from leaking, and do what needs to be done, Pease

A lot of Land Rovers we reseal are body seams, actually almost all of 'em. But the ones we touch are usually still factory glass in 'em.

I agree with Long Island.

Thats interesting Glasssgod. She did mention it was leaking when she bought it from the dealer, but it was used so I figured it had been done before. I'll have to check the branding on the glass when I get there. I appreciate that tip alot.

Heading to the job now