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AGN, have you used essex alot? I personally and this is soley my own opinion, have had so many problems with them, and they did not resolve, I have been a sika customer now for 4 years, prior i was died in the wool essex.. Today my essex guy does not even come by, I had to replace almost 150 shield because of there faulty glass primer...
Also essex does NOT PROVIDE the glass, nor the pinchweld primer...
No i have not used it yet, In 35% of my places i use sikacool, the other 65% have the heatears and love the sika ASAP, by some stoke of luck my ASAP price is SOooo reasonable, i have not swiched. When i was in florida working a CAT team i used XBIV Skia, some weird deal they were testing it was a little to runny for me.. but i like alot of body. The essex rep, dreads see'ing me at shows as i always beat it into the ground of how they screwed up, then get this, the product they gave me to replace the "BAD" product was a past due lot # and was hard as concrete. I would not put my worst enemys windshield in with essex..
The Move-It has been pretty good so far. Its comparable to the ASAP its just not heated. Its a tiny tiny bit stringier then the ASAP, but once you get used to it its no big deal.
We have used express for several years with no problems at all. We tried the One but found it tended to sag a little to much for us. Still use it for hm/nc applications when needed however. You do have to buy primers seperate.
We use 428+, Express or One on general applications. Have never had any problems with them. Will admit that ONE is just a tad bit runny, but then, some like a firmer bead, some with just a little give. Depends on the application and each persons preference I guess.
We use essex 400hv in the summer months and have used sika drive, asap, in the cold weather months but this year we are trying ppg's RS200hv. Didn't like it at first, kinda stringy, but I think they changed it alittle and went to the large nozel and it guns and set real nice now. Some urethanes squish down too easy and the w/s sets to close to the body. We will see how the rs200hv does over time, anyone else using it?
I recieved my pack of the betaseal one today.The only difference is the clear primer versus the black 5500.Saves on space and buying glass cleaner and primers(comes with).No need to stock extra cleaner and primers.
I have tried a number of different urethanes and i think i will stick to dow for a-while longer.
I have just recently switched back to express. I like rs200hv and have had no problems with it. I'm just not very happy with PPG at the moment. I actually like the way rs200hv guns better than express.
My local distributor doesn't carry the Sika Move-It that I like to use. I have been thinking about changing to the Betaseal One just because it is more readily available. What are the pros and cons of it? Is it heated or cold applied? Do you just clean the glass and then prime it with the little stick like Sika or is it more complicated? Whats the drive-away time? Is it real stringy?
I've used sika and essex. I liked essex better than sika... I have been using srp 180 and velocity for the last two years and I love the product.SRP does need to get their act together and get a rep hired in my area soon though.
PPG product seems okay too- sales rep is working on me to switch. No kits offered for srp yet, PPG is cheeper in kit form for the all weather vs. velocity, both are cheeper than sika and essex last time I checked.
I really like Sika. My problem is that I am the only one that buys it from my distributor thus they do not keep it in stock. They order it when I need it, but then that means I have to wait until the next day to get it. So far it hasn't been a problem, I just thought switching to something they keep in stock wouldn't be a bad idea.
They keep 3-4 of the Betaseal EZKits on the shelf at all times. So that would mean no waiting. I think I'm going to try it just for the heck of it. I really like the fact that it comes with a can of glass cleaner...the GC-800 is the best cleaner I have found by far.
we used to love beta seal, the two tube setup,we used that for alot of years. as i recall the beta one has the same properties for safe drive away as the two part beta seal. for some reason i am drawing a blank, the way i remember beta seal in the two part tubes had a 1/2 hour safe drive away time for cars with no air bags, but i can't remember if the single tube new beta one is the same?
Sucks that glass down, holds to OEM specs, OEM approved, multiple packaging options/dispensing options, all weather apps, HiMod, N/C, great tech support, crash tested, an OE supplier in bed with the car mfgs up to their eyeballs so they know ALL about OEM specs, great people....
Did I miss anything?
Any product is only as good as the person using it, following the usage instructions to the letter. Personal preference will always influence opinions, rightfully so, conditions, applications, so the requirements of both will vary. But that does not change the quality of a product. Whatever you choose in any given installation, just follow the rules.
Well said Mark1. I have friends who have used Essex, SRP, Sika, you name it. As long as you follow the rules, I think all of it works like the manufacturer says it will. I personally prefer Sika, my boss likes Essex, it's just personal preference and cost concerns that dictate which shop uses which adhesive. If any one adhesive had as many real problems as we hear about, I think that company would be sued and put out of business faster than you or I could believe. Just keep doing the right thing, and whichever adhesive you are using will be just fine.
Switched to Essex when they introduced the U5201 because it gave me an adhesive manufacturers bare metal etch primer to keep all products in the same family.
My Sika rep said Uh...Uh...Just use two coats of our primer 10 min. apart, that will be the same.
Seemed like they just missed the boat on an etch primer to me.
Pinky, ask to see the actual test results from two coats of pinchweld primer.
The ones from the actual exposure tank test gizmo, the one with salt water spray, UV, Heat, ect ect.
I can say from experience that "a" coat of pinchweld primer don't cut it for corrosion protection, not near the level of the OEM Ecoat in any way.
One coat, or two, may be referred to as a "corrosion inhibitor", but so is peanut butter......for a time.
It's about returning "A" Corrosion "Protection" layer. U5201 is great stuff, and saved us hours waiting for other body shop products to dry. Max thirty minutes, you just shift your install routine so you are doing other things while the stuff is drying, so you might add 10 actual minutes to the install.
Of course, I opine that a person should charge for everything that you do, and do everything that you charge for. Such as Corrosion Treatment.