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DW1036 &DW1037

I have a 1999 peterbuilt coming in for a windshield replacement. I have do some big trucks before but when i received the glass &*#@ anybody with some pointers. THNXS

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Rope them in,also use your hook tool.For first time easier with two people.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

These are a pain in the arse. You have to rope them in definitley and its good if you grease 'em up with some glass cleaner or silicone. If you have a good suction cup use it on the inside to hold the window in place while your roping. They have a bad habit of falling out as you rope.

If possible use two people...a pair of hands on the outside is priceless!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

We have a fleet account that has over 200 of these things we do on avg.17 a month.They are easy as pie takes 5-10 inutes per side. do one side at a time (Do not pull both w/s at same time). Watch the top square corners they like to tear ,like they said use silcone spray and rope in ,use a cup . real easy to remove, cut from the inside the top and bottom square corners and push out. You can do everything from the inside of the cab.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

When i receive one of these w/s's,they come with the butyl tape already on them.I don't think silicone is a good idea.The only thing that i can think of is to snip off about 3/8" off the top corner by the centerpost part of the rubber,this will make getting that corner in a little easier.
I'm sorry;5-10 minutes?I doubt that.Or;somethings missing in the install.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Butyl tape?

I've never rec'd one with butyl tape on it. I sure wouldn't have siliconed it if I had. I generally round off the top corners so they don't rip as easily. Most of the time these are a pain in the arse, but occasionally you'll get one thats gravy.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Latest Info I have on these is the Peterbilt notice:

"This windshield must be installed using butyl sealant tape, Peterbilt P/N 28-00195. Use of squeezable, tube, or paste bype sealants are not recommended and likely to result in poor sealing.

23-12561"

If anyone has any more current info, I'd like to see it. Dry sets don't seal, and I've run into a few that someone tried to urethane in. Hell to get out, if it stuck to the encapsulation, at least hell to clean the urethane off the pinchweld for the next one.

From when we had the originals that came with the butyl attached, I recall it was about a 6mm foam core type butyl. The tag I quoted from above is off of the OEM part, and no longer comes with the butyl attached.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

I have always dry set them and never had a problem. Thats the way I was taught to do it.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

If you search back there is a thread about these. Mark1 has the best answer out there. From what we learned by talking to an old timer @ Peterbuilt, they use 1/4 butle tape, it's a must, then they use a 14 gauge plastic coated wire, not rope, and they use a "wet type" silicone spray all the way around so it will slip in. The wet type silicone spray does not hurt the butle or seal. Also use of a long nose vise grip and hook tools to get the corners in. Start on outside corners or bottom, and work toward center, because of the large ears of encapsulation. 2ersons, 1 in 1 out. That's the way I learned it from an old timer at Peterbuilt. If you do alot of them,, not too bad, but if not,,, pain in the **** is right!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Yesh the wire thing works good. I use masonry cord on a lot of the old gasket windows.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

We never had any problems with these and I do them according to Peterbilt .(but I still use a rope and lube everything good) I also owned a 01 Pete 379 xtended hood w/ a 475 cat and a 15 speed eaton/fuller transmission with a custom built amercan built sleeper.(I didnt always do glass ).(this truck has been sold to a guy in Kansas and has won a few truck shows since he repainted it.)

one other thing I like the way people on this board always try to discredit others and the work they do.Not everyone is a liar or a hack. 5-10 minutes on these is more time than the dallas peterbilt or Oklahoma peterbilt dealers takes to do them.not every job takes 1-2 hours.
The rounding of the corner does work if you have trouble.
By the way how long do you think it should take to do a DL4746.we do these in 15 minute or less if we have the glass pre cut,30-40 if we have to cut the glass .Our distributor dont always have them instock so sometimes we just cut them in shop .

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

OK ON THE TOP CENTER CORNERS IF YOU CLEAN THE ENCAP WITH CLEANER FOLD INSIDE AND DUCT TAPE WORKS GREAT AND IF I COULD I WOULD NOT WANT TO DO THESE IN 10 OR 15 MINUTES NO REASON TOO NEVER CUT THE CORNERS

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

If I hold my mouth just right and use the right combination of cuss words I've done these in 20 or 30 minutes. I wish I could remember that formula everytime.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

If you remember that combination please pass it on!

I've seen guys do these in only a few minutes so I know its possible...but personally I always have a hard time with them.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

All I know is I spend at least 15 min. masking them off inside and out so you don't get glass all over the guys truck. Or I spend 10-15 min carefully cutting the encapsulation off to get the glass out,,, 5-10 min total,,, I can't do it!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Wow ...... I dodnt understand what the big deal is with these things just cut the square corners and push ...wow its out no masking ,no major clean up of glass .. Dont be scared to do the job. These are so easy that my 9 yr old could do it.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Thats what I need to do!! Get my five year old to come with me!! Us adults just over complicate things!!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Gold Glass has this on their web site under Foam Core Butyl. www.gggcorp.com, I use the 6mm, never a problem

There are occasions when a replacement windshield may not attain a watertight seal during installation. This may be due to a residue left in the windshield recess channel. The residue prevents the butyl sealing tape, from properly bonding to the channel's surface, which could result in a water leak when the windshield is installed. The channel must be thoroughly cleaned to ensure a watertight seal.

A change to the windshield replacement procedure for the above vehicles has been developed. The change involves cleaning the channel with mineral spirits then treating the channel with a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust.

Installing A Model 379-family Windshield
Follow the procedure below to install a conventional windshield.
1. Ensure that the pinchweld is clean and free from any residue left from the previous windshield installation.
2. Moisten a clean cloth with mineral spirits.
3. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel vigorously with the cloth.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 as necessary, starting with a clean cloth each time to ensure that the residue is not redistributed within the channel.
5. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel a final time with a clean, dry cloth.
6. Apply a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust to the entire channel, using a dauber, according to the manufacturer's instructions. .
NOTE: Do not remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.
7. Apply 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) butyl tape can also use 6X6mm Hollow Core Butyl Tape in the recess channel of the windshield encapsulation
8. Using a nylon pull rope 3/16 in. (4.7 mm) in diameter and 12 feet (3.7 m) long. Tie loops on each end of rope for handholds.
9. Lubricate the pull rope with a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water. Wipe clean any excess solution prior to use.
10. lnsert the pull rope in and around the windshield encapsulation, on the top and both sides only, where the windshield mask flange is designed to go.
11. Brush or spray on a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water
inside the top flaps of the windshield encapsulation; ie., the areas behind which the
pull rope is inserted. This will allow the flaps to pull in across the mask with less drag.
Two persons are required for windshield installation:
· One person inside the cab to pull the windshield in by pulling the rope (the rope puller).
· One person to place the windshield in the mask and assist in the installation by apply
ing pressure in certain areas as the rope is pulled (the windshield handler). The right
hand windshield is normally installed first, but this is a matter of preference.

12. Remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.

CAUTION: Exercise care when setting the bottom inboard corner. The flap is susceptible to tearing if it is caught in a bind with the flange.
13. Set the bottom inboard corner of the windshield into the mask opening, next to the center post. Ensure that the encapsulation flap is on the inside of the cab over the bottom mask flange. As the bottom of the windshield is set into place, position the pull rope ends to be pulled from inside the cab

NOTE: At this point, the windshield handler must ensure that the windshield is pushed down into the mask (windshield frame) as tightly as possible.



14. Windshield handler:
- Push the windshield towards the inside of the cab, exerting a nominal amount of force.
Rope puller:
- - Pull the rope up the inboard side for the entire length of the center post, stopping short of the radius. .
- Pull the rope up the outboard side for 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the outboard edge. _.

NOTE: The rope puller must ensure that the encapsulation flap is over the mask flange where the rope has been pulled. If there is an area of the encapsulation that is not over the flange, the windshield handler should assist by applying a more inward force by intermittently striking the windshield with the palm of the hand. Then the inside flap should be driven in position by striking the glass with the palm of the hand.

15. Windshield handler: Apply inward pressure to the windshield until the rope is completely pulled through. This pressure can be applied by pushing and/or striking (a glancing blow) with the hand. Work in unison with the rope puller.
· Rope puller: Starting at the center post, pull the rope through the radius, along the top, and through the outboard radius, stopping just outside the radius to complete the pull.
· If the two installers work together, the windshield should "pop in" as the above step is completed.
16. Repeat the above steps to install the other windshield. Remember: Setting the windshield center to outboard is the key to properly positioning the windshield in the opening.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

I did not realize how compicated these were for some installers. We have done hundreds of these over the years. The first 20 or so I hated to know they were coming, but now we can have them done 10 minutes per side. With no short cuts.
The most important things for us are:

The size of the rope that you are going to string it in with. To large of diameter makes it difficult and the encapsulation tears easier. Don't know the specs of the rope we use but it is smaller than what we had always used before on standard rubber seals.

Lube the encapsulation and body good. Remember the butyl is not being used as an adhesive to pass crash tests. It is a sealer to fill the void to stop the leak problems that this design created 20 YEARS ago when the design first came out.

I prefer to do these by myself and have a suction cup on the inside to hold it in place. If my helper is experienced great, but otherwise they just complicate these installations.

Start the rope in the bottom about four inches in from the outside corner and pull in the two edges that are shallower(bottom & outside) then pull the top and center in.

We used to have and installer that cut the corners off, but I never seen the need for that.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

SBOK- I 'm glad to see I'm not the only one that can do these under an hour. I was getting kind of lonely.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Don't be lonely AH-AG you always have your 9 yr old, and they work real cheap too don't they! Next one I get I'll get ya a train ticket to come up here so you and your 9 yr old can do it in 10 min! way cool,,,, and you were the one saying how some dis others out here!!!! tooo funnny!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

XXX- I just find it hard to believe that some of these guys refuse to believe that someone might be a little faster than others and still be able to do the job right. I dont feel that the statement I made about my 9 yr old was putting any one person down and if for some reason I did step on some ones toes well than I hope all will foregive me . I was just useing that as an example of how easy I feel these things are.
Oh and by the way the child labor laws in TX say I have to pay my 9 yr old $1,950.00 every two weeks plus profit sharing.kind of sucks if you ask me ,I remember back home in Wisconsin we where lucky to get$5 and a cup of hot chocolate for shoveling the sidewalk.

I guess I sould be nicer XXX since we maybe neighbors before long.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

AH-AG, I'd love to be 9 again!!! and get paid that every two weeks,,, wow, my wife says she will be right down,,, she's about the size of a 9 yr old! And we don't even get paid that much!!!! No problem maaaan! There are much more serious things out there than how fast we can do ANYTHING! BUT,,, THE OLDER I GET,, THE SLOWER I GET!!!! MAYBE ,,THE MORE cautious I get! But I get better with age also!!!!!I'm not as good as I once was,,, but I'm as good once as I ever was!!!!At the shop late tonite,, had to come in and help unload the truck from these terrible distributors!!!! ss glass in 48x84's are a real pain,, especially if they break!!!But I'm sure now someone will tell me "WHAT A PIECE OF CAKE THEY ARE"!!!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

GRAVY!!!!

My 5 year old is out unloading one of those right now!!!






Disclaimer: No offense intended. Just having fun.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

XXX,

Bring the SS in the door in case only, turtle to the slot, jim pole, block, and done. Break the case from the ends not the face.

And be careful, some chinese SS glass slipped into the distributors system in some places. Paper packing rather than wheat germ, between every cotton picking sheet, but the real problem is, it's about .015 thicker than normal SS.

You wouldn't think that would be a problem, but on many windows, it just won't fit.

If you've been loose-lighting the SS, bite the bullet and go 50+ light case. The cost difference will pay in the long run. Two people can have a case in and down in about thirty minutes, but three people is safer.

Our SS, DS, and DS mirror case rack is nothing more than a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 angle iron four legged square, tabbed feet screwed into the concrete floor. (watch out for your floor heat). Case roll in, tie to the upright legs, an it's got a plywood top for overhead storage. Quick and fast.

Lami cases we prefer the open face method due to the weight of the sheets, so we stand those up in open face racks right next to the cutting table so one man can handle them.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

Mark1, sure sounds ALOT SAFER! I'll have to check into it. In spring it would be a good buy, but with winter coming a pallet of 50 would last thru until next year, then I'll lose on year end having too much inventory! We are a pretty small shop usually 5-6 sheets will last a month sometimes 2, but then it all depends on the storms. great tips though! I should probably do it early in the spring and do it but once!Handling them single sheets even with arm protectors is still scary! Thanks And AGN,, yea right! I cringe watching ANYONE handle sheets of ss!

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

XXX,

Cost difference on case vs loose lite should be 50%. YOu should be able to get at least .32 SS.

Well worth sitting on the inventory.

Also, inventory tip: cutoff isn't countable by computers. lol lol You have to 'adjust' as needed.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

A while back we tried ppg, lof, fyg and just about every other brand of 1036 and 1037. When we tried to roll in the corners as we had always done, we didn't rope cut the trim they just tore from being handled. We finally got OE w/s and then Guardian {OE Manufacturer} and 99 % of the problems stopped.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

I prefer guardian dot 22. The last peterbilt OEM w/s had a dot 563 which is made in china. Piece of crap same plant that PPG was using.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

XXX,

Your cost variant on loose lite vs case should be 50%. On something as used as SS it's worth it, you should be able to get .32 to .35.

Inventory tip: Computers can't count cutoff, but they can adjust for stock loss due to breakage.

Flat glass inventory is so fluid, it's not even funny.

Re: DW1036 &DW1037

I hear ya Mark1. We probably should have started an entire thread on this but oh well...I'm going to look at this real close. It may well be way more worth it to order once, and get through the whole year or close enough. And Breakage,,, Egadd, just laid out a sheet the other day and had 1/2 go the wrong way,,, but hey once in a while it happens,,,, GLASS BREAKS! I appreciate your comments and direction on this,, like I said ,, I hear ya.... we will be doing this a bit different.... These are the things that set us apart from auto only glass shops!!!! THAK YOU AGAIN! 6 thumbs UP!

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