When shooting across the top of the w/s. Where is the best place to butt the urethane together? This is a for those of us who are not oragatangs and have to stop ans restart somewhere on the top.

HEY HEY HEY.....

I resemble that 'oragatang' remark!

Gun the glass. I've seen too many leaks from the joint at the top.

Otherwise, just be sure to make a good joint.

i agree shoot the spodge on the glass most of the time. if its a b/g and the trunk is in the way goo up the body. if you do the glass its easy to drag urethane on the package tray, or if your one of those o i can leave the cowl screen on this one guy's your on your own
signed hackemupdaily

If you shoot the glass,start where you wont have a seem on the top.On the body reach across to the passenger or drivers side corner and start it there.Just make sure you mesh them very well.

If you have to have a seam, I always put it 6-8 inches toward the passenger side, and make sure it is very SMOOOOOOOOOOTH.

i always put it right in the middle, too short to reach any further comfortably, only get about 1 leaker a year usually just pull it and do it over

Are you serious?I hope not.There are many other ways to get the bead in the corners even if you are to short armed.I think my arms have streched out over the years from putting in glass.Maybe?

I ALWAYS reach all the way across the vehicle, and where i can not i ABSOLUTELY do not start in the middle there is too many **** cars these days you can not easily pull a mirror on to fix a leak, or you have all kindsa stuffies in the way. I have one guy that works for me that guns the glass, but he is a nut he sets glue on glass 1061's by himself

Sorry so far NO correct answer posted. Mark 1 you worry me you seem to be fixated on joints.

I try not to have a seam at the top, but on some there is no choice. I gun from the passenger side, so if there is a seam it's usually 6-12 inches from center. I always use a slight forward push into the end of a seam so there is full contact then smooth it out with gun or fiber stick so there is no gap. never have had much trouble with this but I also set with 2 persons on most everything and we watch carefully the little stuff. most the time try to gun 4-6" down a-pillars. extra few seconds of care and I really haven't seen many problems. There's my 2 cents!

Right behind the 5/16" ME7495 marcy foam spacer block (1 of 6 I use to insure a uniform seal around the perimeter of the windshield) usuaexplly in the center. Please enlighten me if this is wrong so I won't have an ignorant butt.

spell check

The recommended spot to butt the urethane on top is over the steering wheel.
On impact this area is under the least stress.

Dry set it, mark it and Shoot the glass everytime. I start my seam down near the vin opening and end it with a 1in overlap then paddle the seam together.
I challenge anyone to be able to shoot the body faster and smoother than shooting the glass. It's alot easier to walk around the w/s than it is to climb on someone's car.

LOL LOL

Fixated on joints? Didn't think about what I typed. lol

OK, the MESH, the OVERLAP, the JoinING of the application of the bead(s).

Just make a good one no matter where you put it.

Seriously, we haven't gunned a pinchweld in so long.....can't even remember the last one, but it was about four months ago, an older smaller car as I recall. We always gun the glass, ends overlap or butt w/excess always on bottom just where the OEM put it. Too easy, Two man sets.

Still laughing about being fixated on joints! lol

Gunning the glass would mean two man sets on everything. As great as it sounds I can't believe it actually happens! I have a hard enough time trying to get a second man on a real two man set...I'd get laughed right out of the shop if I asked for a second guy on everything!

They happen all the time AGN.

No kidding. We prefer them. Less wear and tear on the 'ol body.

And I'm seeing this more and more: two guys in the big boys vans now too. Could be gas conservation, but there sure weren't any big shields in the rack, and only four normal sized ones. THat's not many for two guys and a seventy mile one way trip from whence they came.

Not to change SGlass' string, but here's a thought provoker:

"Why do auto manufacturers gun the glass rather than the body?"

They probably gun the glass because it is all automated. Must be easier to shoot a glass then a pinchweld on the assembly line.
Not sure will welcome a better answer.

I would love it if this became the norm! I like working on my own, but it gets so lonely sometimes. Nothing but endless miles. It seems this would be a lot more productive also. You would get the same amount of work done...two guys can do a lot more then one by himself. Each team could probably do 12 or so installs per day.

hey ninja
i work alone most of the time too but i still place spodey on glass and use two cups to set as far as being lonley well i just place blow up bob in the pass side and hit the hov lane heck some times i take a nap and let him drive he is always driving whe the photo radar goes off

Small shop, rural mn, we do ALL 2 person sets. And I did not say 2 MAN sets I said 2 person sets. Over the last 5years,, it has been ALL female helpers, office helpers, wife, daughter, and son , but we set ALL W/S now with 2 persons. Still don't care for for gunning the glass, pulled out 3 this week that were done that way,,,,, very little contact, to pinchweld, some as little as 1/8" or less! I'll stick to gunning the pinchweld,,, but I am looking at cases where gunning the glass would be better,,, havn't found any yet,, but we will stay open to improvement,,, but I'm old fashioned,,, I say PROVE IT!

Been gunning the glass since about 93. Contact problems can occour whether you gun the glass or the body, it's just a matter of determining the bead size correctly. I can only recall a few leakers due to pinchweld contact problems. Many times one must adjust the bead by increasing traverse speed while gunning to accomodate WS that need much urethane on the top and bottom, but less on the sides, but that's no different if you gun the body.

THe proper bead size is one of the most important things of an installation, and it's one of the simple little things that are so important to a good installaton that is the difference between a autoglass craftsman (craftperson) and a trained monkey. I know that insurers believe that any person with two weeks training can install glass, but we all know better.

We gun the glass because it ensures the bead contact to the glass where I want it, not excessively to/over moulding edges for example. We reprime all areas to the body around the existing trimmed back urethane bed on all vehicles, just in case we don't match up exactly to the old bed, and many installs are factory primerless to paint anyway so they need body primer, not just refreshing of old factory primer that isn't even there.

There are exceptions that must be noted, two come to mind quickly, like the 1105's, which required a 'special' bead to the glass to ensure glass and pinchweld contact, but that would have to be done whether you gun the glass or body. Same with Sprinters, with the wide J-mold underlap and narrow pinchweld. We also keep those extra time after install too.

I suppose I started it after seeing it done by the car mfgs that way. And again, to the title of this string, we try to 'butt' the bead where, and how, the factory did.

I'm not going to go into cowl jumping, but suffice to day, you can't cowl jump if you gun the glass. Of course, I've got many pics that show that it won't work if you gun the body either. lol

Saw a cable show last year on how the Corvette is manufactured on the assembly line, the robot gunned the pinchweld, then a robot with 2 suction cups set the glass.