I received this email just a few minutes ago and wondered if any of you folks could answer her question. Thanks.

We are installing a Honda Ridgeline windshield that is heated. The tech manual says to pull the plug thru the grids on the dash and through a (supposed) hole in the glove box, but there is no hole in the glove box. We ended up taking out the entire glove box - which is very time consuming (especially on the road) to eventually disconnect the plug for the heating element. Is there an easier way to do this? The dealer was of no help at all.

I work for an auto glass company in New Jersey. Please advise me as soon as possible.

Thanx - Sue

You must pull out glove box to attach heating wire...no other way around it, only took us ten extra minutes.

Yeah there is like a little compartment you can pop loose, STUPID design and $$$$$$ windshield...

And then I lost my weding band in the Ridgeline pulling my hand out of that hole, never, with time running out, I striped part of inner bulb away then it went to the top. I don't want any more.

I can only imagine the potential for some 'slammer'to
try and splice the wire ya'll are talking about

lol this is the most iggnorant thing i have ever seen its like that nutty ass wire in an old gm back glass that you had to fish way down into the trunk...

I copied this off of here a couple weeks ago, hope it helps.
Did my first Honda Ridgeline today and thought I would pass on a couple tips I learned. The windshield was heated (not sure if they all are?). The wire lead is on the passenger side. If you look at the top right of the dashboard, you will see a speaker cover. (actual speaker is attached to the cover) This cover simply pops up and off. The wire lead goes under it. To get to the connection, you have to get behind the glove box. (yes, I know... what were they thinking?) To do this, open the glove box and on both sides of the box, you will see a tab. On the outside of the box, pinch the hook tabs and push the tab in. Slightly close the glove box and do a little twist and turn to pull out the entire piece. This is what stops the glove box from falling out. Once both sides are off, the box will just lay forward down to the floor and still be attached at the hinges. (ok to just leave this way!) Grab a flashlight and look in and up. you will see a large steel bar (about 2" wide). The w/s wire is the only one mounted to this bar. Pop the clip out of the bar and disconnect. (new clip comes on the new wire harness) When you cut out the windshield, it will pull out.
When setting the windshield, just feed it down while setting. Not too bad. Just reverse to put back together.
Also, the base of the windshield is FAR below the dash level!!! On the outside, the hood also sets well over the edge to where you can't get a cold knife in. Top 3 sides were no problem. Pull out molding (tight) and 1" cold knife, easy! On the bottom, I used the Express with the RLE1404 blade (3" wide, 14" long). There is maybe 1" missing from the blade from being sharpened. Let me tell you, It was all the length that blade had to get down to the urethane. Just be careful, the dash is VERY close and can be damaged easily.
We use the milwaukee guns to shoot our adhesives. I shot it as normal with the hood closed. Turned out fine but next time I think I will try shooting the bottom from under the hood like I do on the BMW's.
When setting MAKE SURE you pull the windshield up so that the molding sets tight to the roof/pinchweld. This replacement was for a TSB from a Honda dealer for "excessive air noise" caused by the molding. Make sure the corners and top of the molding are tight with little gap to avoid further problems.
OK, sorry this is long, but hope this helps when you see the Ridgeline for the first time.