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Did my first Honda Ridgeline today and thought I would pass on a couple tips I learned. The windshield was heated (not sure if they all are?). The wire lead is on the passenger side. If you look at the top right of the dashboard, you will see a speaker cover. (actual speaker is attached to the cover) This cover simply pops up and off. The wire lead goes under it. To get to the connection, you have to get behind the glove box. (yes, I know... what were they thinking?) To do this, open the glove box and on both sides of the box, you will see a tab. On the outside of the box, pinch the hook tabs and push the tab in. Slightly close the glove box and do a little twist and turn to pull out the entire piece. This is what stops the glove box from falling out. Once both sides are off, the box will just lay forward down to the floor and still be attached at the hinges. (ok to just leave this way!) Grab a flashlight and look in and up. you will see a large steel bar (about 2" wide). The w/s wire is the only one mounted to this bar. Pop the clip out of the bar and disconnect. (new clip comes on the new wire harness) When you cut out the windshield, it will pull out.
When setting the windshield, just feed it down while setting. Not too bad. Just reverse to put back together.
Also, the base of the windshield is FAR below the dash level!!! On the outside, the hood also sets well over the edge to where you can't get a cold knife in. Top 3 sides were no problem. Pull out molding (tight) and 1" cold knife, easy! On the bottom, I used the Express with the RLE1404 blade (3" wide, 14" long). There is maybe 1" missing from the blade from being sharpened. Let me tell you, It was all the length that blade had to get down to the urethane. Just be careful, the dash is VERY close and can be damaged easily.
We use the milwaukee guns to shoot our adhesives. I shot it as normal with the hood closed. Turned out fine but next time I think I will try shooting the bottom from under the hood like I do on the BMW's.
When setting MAKE SURE you pull the windshield up so that the molding sets tight to the roof/pinchweld. This replacement was for a TSB from a Honda dealer for "excessive air noise" caused by the molding. Make sure the corners and top of the molding are tight with little gap to avoid further problems.
OK, sorry this is long, but hope this helps when you see the Ridgeline for the first time.
If you have a couple hours, check out Honda's 10 page service bulletin number 05-069 for this vehicle.. There is a 4 piece dam, 1 piece felt, 2 upper foams, 2 side foams, 2 glass fasteners and 2 body fasteners that they want used on all replacements..It's a nightmare....
Yeah we've R & I quite a few of these for windnoises, its a pain not cutting off that wire. But so far so good.
One little note, you don't have to feed wire down through while setting glass, just tape it to window then feed it in after setting.
Don't know about all that foam dam stuff, haven't had any come back after we've done them. The bottom strip that is attached to glass is not usually damaged during removal
I tried to do my first on yesterday. The tips were great, but I had to stop when I was unable to reuse the old molding and no one had one accept the Honda dealer and they refused to sell it to us. They said it was being held for the new car department. I'll go back next Friday after we get one in. Thanks again for the info.