Making some new glass racks up for my stock.

Anyone have a good solution for a cheap, solid rack that doesn’t break glass.

Not keen on the tall upright standing tree racks made of steel. They are a hassle to build and weigh too much.

What do you guys use???

4by4 ,s with wooden dowels drilled in ...

We used pine dowels and they suck. Bite the bullet and spend the money on good maple or another hardwood dowel.

We used 2-4x4's lag screwed into main supports up the wall then you can use either 2x4's or 2x2's with 4"-6", strong, drywall screws to attach to the 4x4,s. space about 1"-1.5" apart for spacing of the shields. use a slight upward angle on the 2x2's or the w/s supports. We get about 25-30 w/s's per rack. hope that helps. One of our best mobile racks is made from 2x4 base and 2x2's for uprights. a little short nap carpet to slide the glass on and rubber spacers hold in place. good luck.

I use pvc pipe sliped over 1/2 sreel pipe into a 4x4 or welded to steel.

Take 2 4x4s and attach them to 2 2x4s underneath for feet. Make width and length to suit your needs. Don't spend the money for dowels. Closet rod is much cheaper and works great. Cut the rod into 20 - 30" lengths. Bore 1" deep holes into the 4X4s 2 - 3" apart with a spade bit same diameter or slightly smaller than the rod. You might have to sand the end of the rod a little to get it to fit but tight fit is important. Use wood glue to attach rods and tap them down with a mallet. I built an 8 lite rack 4 years ago and a 16 lite rack 2 years ago. Both work great and neither has needed so much as a repair. For less than $50 you can store a lot of glass.

I'm confused....why are we building racks to store closet rods?????


LOL Just kidding....we do the 4X4s with the closet rod as well, just check the spade bit size to the rod size first. As someone pointed out, tight fit is important.

We have racks dating back to the 70s wtih this construction. The 4x's can be easily tied to most any kind of wall.

Right now, we're thinking of adding another rack specifically for larger and taller windshields, with longer rods, but spaced closer together. Seems most of these taller ws' don't have much curve to them, so we believe we can get more per rack on that one without extending the height.

I believe the quality of the 4X is the most important, while it may be harder to drill with the spade bit, it is what carries the weight for all those years. And always drill your holes 'across' the grain rather than 'with' the grain as much as possible to avoid splitting over time. A fast coat of linseed oil on the 4x's when done seals them up a bit too if you're in a high humidity climate. (but most definitely NOT the rods)