ok i've read the post in the past about people asking about the best way to take off the sides molding on the new ford f150, but i really don't remember. I'm in a big gm area and i haven't really run into the new F150 pickup till tomorrow. So i'm just asking whats the best way to get the sides molding off with out damaging anything?? I read some say start at the back of the cab and pull it off the double sided tape then slide it off upward?? others say start at the bottom and do the same.
So whats the best way to do it?? Any info or tips would be great, thanks...
and sorry for asking this question again.
We have tried all the suggested tricks for removing the sides without damaging the clips, and none have worked for us very well. I strongly suggest you have a set of replacement side clips. Yes, they are terribly and ridiculously expensive from Ford, but I understand Precision will have them soon.
Other than that, we don't take them off the top of the cab, we work around them very carefully. Repeat that, VERY carefully, they kink easily, and the clips have not slid out the end on any we have done, if you take the back off and slide up.
We hear different stories on these from other shops around the country, and I wonder if there are different molding mfgs supplying these to Ford. One of my friends out west claims these just almost unhook when you ask them too. He can't believe we have troubles with them. We can't believe anyone does not have troubles.
But to the side clips, they are one of the most fragile plastic clips I have seen, including on any foreign cars over the years. They were made to break. I have broken a couple of new ones (the wings) installing them into the trim, and yes, I am careful.
Ford part # 4L3Z-1510182-AA Eight req.
Did one of these today and one on Tuesday. No clips broken.
The molding obviously runs all the way to the rear of the roof where it slides into the little tab at the end. Start working about 12+" forward from that point. Using an installation stick on one side of the molding, start manipulating the molding up and forcing ("gentle persuasion") one side of the molding off of the trim attached to the roof. (the trim that the molding is hooked over is rigid plastic, but will give) This is the worst part. Once you get one side started, just run your stick along the edge of it to release the one side the entire length of the roof, then just slide if off the other side. Once the roof is released, keep the molding from scratching the roof. Slide the molding up the A pillar in the EXACT (not doing this will cause it to get snagged and/or bend) angle of the A pillar. There are some little notches that the clips might get caught on but just slide it back down a little then give it a light "tug" past. I have done this method MANY, MANY times and have yet to break a clip or bend a molding.
I do know that trying to get the moldings to release from the catch on the A pillar is truly impossible since the catch is made out of metal which will not give like all of similar designs and the clips are obviously thin plastic. Did that on the first one I ever did and haven't done it since.
When putting it back together, I start sliding the molding from the front of the roof to the rear onto the body. Again, being cautious not to allow the front of the molding to scratch anything. Once it is all of the way back and slid into the tab at the rear, I just align the clips on the A pillar and snap them down.
Well, this is basically how I do them and if anything is unclear, just ask.
Anyone else have a different technique?
I take a small standard pocket screwdriver, locate where the clips are and open the body mounded retainer where the clip is. Once you get the clips loose, slide the moulding forward off the rail. I spray glass cleaner on the rain and slide it back on to re-install. the body mounded retainer bends back easily, and holds well.
thank you all for your help, i'm going to put your advice to work tomorrow. I'll let you know how i did. Thanks again...
We also use fiber stick but put fiber stick behind lower glass molding toward body then gently pull molding toward body,that will release clip from molding then after molding off take hook type tool to remove clips.Will not damage molding or clips.
Job done with out much trouble. Thank you all for your info it helped alot!!
What i did was start at the back with a fiber stick and ran it along the edge of the molding to pop it off of the plastic rail and out of the slot in back. Then slide it upward along the metal rail. Now this was where it got tricky, because the plastic clips would stick on the the rivit heads that kept the metal rail on. You were right we had to give a pull to get it past it. Then when the clips were at the top and the molding was almost off, i was able to pop the molding off of the last few clips. Really didn't even break one clip, well I did break one of the wings that goes inside the molding but it didn't make a differents. And was the only one. It did take me about 20 minutes to get both of them off, due to the fact it was my first one and didn't want to bend and break anything. Job done no problems everything is great. thanks again!!!
I RIP THEM OFF AND GET THE INSURANCE COMPANY TO PAY FOR NEW DRIP RAIL MOLDINGS AND CLIPS. ANY OTHER METHOD IS A WASTE OF TIME AND A REAL HEADACHE.
I am guessing here but I'll bet your two favorite tools are a meat cleaver and a claw hammer.
I'm all for billing these pieces to an insurance company .
what do you do alf? Where Im at time is money. We don't have all day to screw around. Same issue comes up on the late model Nissan/Infinity models such as Maxima and Q35. You cannot even purchase the clips seperately and when you make any attempt whatsoever to pry or twist or get under them they are dented...in the auto body field a insurance adjuster calls these consumable parts. Check into it pal.
another case were we don't get paid to do it right. Either more $ or parts in advance. NAGS wont pay to save. The billing time and effort don't pay well either.
I forget that Safelite installers have a quota. Now if you could learn to take the mlds off and reuse them Glen Moses will give you a big wet kiss and Safelite could bill for mlds/clips even if they weren't used. And all of the extra mlds/clips you get you could put on e-bay. I can't help it I'm an IDEA GUY.
Prescision makes clips for the DW1529. PCK-1529-04. They are available. Theyre just not that common yet. Give it about a year and then all vendors will stock them. Wait till the winter, OH BOY, we will really need them then. Once a Ford vehicle comes out, it usually takes about a year for NAGS to recognize that clips are an absolute neccesity on certain models. You figure the windshield will be done only how many times before clips are needed to be replaced rather than saved.
Where the heck did this thread go? WOW!
It takes 1 minute to remove these moldings without breaking or bending anything.
Do we have a Safelite installer among us?
My clients want the job done right the first time everytime and don't mind the extra costs of parts such a clips, mldgs, etc even if the insurance company is covering the total. why? Because I am up front and honest with my customers who in turn showed me their gratitude to the tune of $2 million last year. I don't send out men who have so little self confidence that they think they need to hide or be ashamed of breaking plastic, or put down other people for doing the job right. Consider the alternative OR how HAL operates for a moment. HAL and his men reinstal a twisted up drip rail mldg missing half the clips and then 418's it down and rolls a few feet of duct tape out and tells the customer not to take the tape off for 2 days. 3 days later he gets a call from that customer sayin it's whisling dixie at 70mph. Then what does he do? Tells the customer than he has no idea why it would be making noise. Puts on an act of confusion. And then tells the customer to get ******! I like how I handle a situation. Head ON! Having trouble paying your utility bill lately HAL? Might be time to switch trades. I hear brick layers make good money and you could even put in your application that you have experience
some come off easy and some dont make it, we keep a set in stock and keep all the clips off the ones that dont and bill for the ones that dont make it because of some idiots who think urethane can be used as clips and the factory uses to much sometimes, just do the job right and sleep well at night
agreed. Just do it right. If you can't save the part, then bill for it. If not reuse it.
We remove these easily by pulling the moulding away from the center of the windshield and slightly up, thus removing it from the outside lip of the clip. Then simply push it back towards the center of the windshield and it comes right of the tabs on the clips.
Now if our favorite installer used urethane last time, then you better keep that replacement part handy for sure. The mouldings have been known to bend just from a dirty look. So remember to smile while you remove them
They are tough to get off without damageing. What I've been doing is "rolling" them off the clips. I've done a couple of these and haven't damaged any yet. I also take the molding completely off the vehicle. Some people I know won't completely remove it.
Equalizer now has a tool to release these clips. Ordered one yesterday and will post how it works after I try it out.
They also now carry the replacement clips. I think it is about $29.00 for I think 25 (?) clips. A little cheaper if you are on IGA pricing.
Thnx for the info Syd
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