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Rear main seal

I am ready to put the car on the road but have a serious oil leak around the rear main seal. I have searched the Durant forum and the internet and looks like a few solutions. (a)Try adding an additive such as blue devil, (b)replace the rope seal with a new one or a converted chevy small block seal or (c)keep adding oil. (a) doesn't sound like it would work. (b) is a whole lot of work. I don't think either can be changed without removing the engine. (c) It is a bad leak and I am going to have unhappy people with spots on driveways etc. Not sure it would pass safety in Ontario with an oil leak. Anyone out there with a different solution?

Where Are You From? Lombardy, On

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1929 D40

Re: Rear main seal

I would first check to see that the rear gasket is on straight and not on a slant.
I had to do mine 3 times to get it straight enough to be a proper seal and not leak. I mean the seal around the oil pan here
Ken

Where Are You From? Kamloops B C Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1930 Durant Deuxe rumble seat coupe Model 614

Re: Rear main seal

That is where I am going to start. It is difficult to see exactly where the oil is coming from. Do you know if I can change the rear seal by dropping the transmission should I have to?

Re: Rear main seal

Hi Jim,

I have a couple W-5 Continental engines and don't recall having removed the oil pan on either....I somehow recall hearing that the W-5 engine does not have a rear seal?...There is a model 40 manual in our technical page that you can download and in one picture it appears that the W-5 has only a rear main bearing cap assembly with no seal? I am sure someone else would better know than myself.

In regard to the split chevy small block seals I have machined new aluminum filler blocks and retrofited those seals into the seal filler blocks on the 6 cylinder 14-L engines and also with some moderate machining installed them in a 6-W Continental "Flint" engine...Nothing to do with the W-5 engine...On those engines the remote mounted transmissions do not need to be removed for seal replacement.

Where Are You From? Leavenworth, WA / Yuma, AZ

Do You own a car built by Durant? 3 or 4

Re: Rear main seal

I DID NOT HAVE TO DROP MY TRANNY TO GET MY OIL PAN OFF DONT KNOW FOR SURE ABOUT YOURS. I HAD TO BE VERY CAREFULL PUTTING THE OIL PAN BACK ON SO I DIDNT BUMP THE GASKET AND KNOCK IT CROOKED.
Ken

Where Are You From? Kamloops B C Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1930 Durant Deuxe rumble seat coupe Model 614

Re: Rear main seal

Another small detail. Look for small holes around the ends of the oil pan A fine wire will tie the gasket in place so it wont be so easy to move it. Might save a lot of time.
Ken

Where Are You From? Kamloops B C Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1930 Durant Deuxe rumble seat coupe Model 614

Re: Rear main seal

Bill:
I looked at the manual and you are right, there is no mention of a rear seal. I took the oil pan off today and got a better picture of the rear bearing. There is a housing that encloses the bearing and is actually part of the block. The crank goes through the bearing and then through the housing and into what looks like a hub and then into the flywheel. I could not see a seal. This housing is made of soft steel that is full of cracks. There is a small hole that is drilled behind the bearing and allows oil to flow from the oil pan into the hub. I suspect that the hub is cracked and that is where my oil leak is. I am going to try some JB Weld for a temporary fix and then see if I can find the housing. Is there anyone out there selling w5 parts?

Re: Rear main seal

Problem solved. The area surrounding the rear seal is made of pot metal and is soft and full of spider cracks. Possibly water got into there at some point in time and opened up a small crack. I used JB Weld to close the opening and then painted the whole area with it. I am down to a tiny drip that I am not going to worry about. I am a big fan of JB Weld.

Re: Rear main seal

Sure hope it works for you .
Ken

Where Are You From? Kamloops B C Canada

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1930 Durant Deuxe rumble seat coupe Model 614

Re: Rear main seal

Bill,You say that you have made new seil blocks for the 14L if so can you make more and how much I have a 29
and the grove is broke off the out side or a used one?

Where Are You From? Oklahoma City,Oklahoma

Do You own a car built by Durant? Yes

Re: Rear main seal

Hi Ray,

Those rear seal blocks take a quite a bit of time (at least for me) to machine and I really don't have the time to get involved in anymore projects right now...Bert I believe had a couple of sets of blocks made last winter for the felt type seals for the 14L, possiably he would want to part with a set? Or could possiably let you know where he had his machined? The Butters in Canada I understand are making them....As far as finding a used set I am sure they would be no better that the ones you have.... Pot metal parts on our cars have generaly overreached their life expectancy.


Jim,

You mentioned something about an oil hole drilled in your filler block? That sound's like the "drain back" hole and should not be plugged, Its purpose is to drain back any splashed oil from the filler or seal block cavity before it can leak from the Filler block/seal block...Bruce Harrigen (retired machinist) machined his own seal blocks for his 14L and took the time to incorporate a drain back system whereas others I am sure are not doing that.

Where Are You From? Leavenworth, WA / Yuma, AZ

Do You own a car built by Durant? 3 or 4

 

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