I have spent today mostly trying to get the car to run, which it is now, though rough, and I think maybe hot? I can still touch the rad hose.

The parts that were switched were:
New Ignition coil
New condenser
New rotor
New Distributor Cap
New Points

The points were set with a .02 inch gap when riding at the high point of the...can't remember what it's called, where the base of the rotor is.

I loosened the Distributor so I could rotate it by hand when the car was running. Twisting it clockwise slows the engine until it wants to stall, twisting it counter clockwise guns the engine a little bit. I tried to find a place in between the two, but the engine still seemed rough.

I took the plugs out to clean them. There is a fair amount of carbon fouling going on. I cleaned them, ran the motor for a very little bit, checked them again and they were black again, not quite as black, but still pretty black for only being run for a short period.

It still feels like it wants to stall, and it once it did stall and there was a little bit of smoke off the engine, not sure where it came from. Not a lot, but some.

So, not sure what I should do now.

Thanks all.

Where Are You From? Langley BC

Do You own a car built by Durant? Durant M2 1928

Gerald, you've done all you can to the ignition side. The black soot and smoke certainly indicates rich fuel mixture. A carb can give a world of headaches with only a small problem. If the choke plate is full open and the float needle valve is not leaking that only leaves the possibility of a blocked air passage in the idle circuit allowing too much fuel at idle conditions. At higher speeds the main jet and/or high speed needle valve comes into play.
My advise would be to replace the carb with a known good one and see what happens before you invest money into yours.

Where Are You From? Texarkana, Tx

Do You own a car built by Durant? several

You can check the exaust system, by removing the muffler for test

Where Are You From? montreal

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1926 star coupe

Gerald,"Process of elimination" is what this is called...Nothing wrong with that....A couple more things you might check, you mentioned you adjusted your new points to .020 It is a good idea after adjusting your points on these old distributors to see if you can move the distributor shaft back and forth and see how much your point gap changes, if it change conciderable then your distributor housing bushing needs replacing, sometimes you can reduce your point gap some if you have a worn bushing and seams to help....Does your distributor have an external ground wire?.....You mentioned you "cleaned" the carbon from your spark plugs, (How were they cleaned? were they sandblasted?) another thing you might try is to see if you can tell if any particular cylinder is missing/running rough by shorting out the spark plugs one cylinder at a time, If you find a cylinder that isn't hitting then change spark plug with a cylinder that is hitting, this may tell you if it is a spark plug or something ese.
Does your new Zenith carb drip when engine is not running?....Another thing that you should eliminate is a tight valve, if you haven't already done so, It doesn't take all that much time to adjust the valves on a W-5.

Gerald, It sounds like you don't have a vaccume or a compression guage so for what it is worth, try hand choking your carburator and see if you feel a good steady pull when cranking with starter...

I have probably yapped enough...Good luck.

Where Are You From? Leavenworth, WA / Yuma, AZ

Do You own a car built by Durant? Yep