I've used rubberized cork that I found at a local gasket supply store. I also coated the friction surface with a graphite goo just to make sure it slips well on the face of the crankshaft.
I reciently converted my Flint 6-W Continental rear main seal over to accept a small block chevy seal, I used the style having the offset lip...I'm not sure if this method would work or not on the W-5, anyway the conversion did require some minor machining to the back of the block as the chevy seal has a 3/16" grouve and the block land is about 5/16", I also needed to machine a flat sealing surface behind the slinger on the rear of the crankshaft as the 6-W crankshaft is tappered in the area that the seal will contact...The chevy seal needs to be pushed into place and trimed to length.
Do You own a car built by Durant? '23 A-22 Touring / '29 Model 40 coup / '25 Flint H-40
I have heard that there are also a couple of 14-L continental engines that are using a two piece 350 chevy seal, I don't have any details so not sure if those engines required any machining or what may have been involved in their retrofit.
Hi Phil,
Actualy, the machine shop that I was told that converted the 14-L engines with the 350 chevy seals that I spoke of would not not release any details involved in their conversion.
I looked at using a number of different seals including a rope seal but nothing came as close to fitting as the 350...The 350 seal is relitivly inexpensive... I might suggest if your continental looks similar to the pictures above, pick one up and fit the one half of the seal in the filler block as above, then do some serious measuring, lay the crank in the block and see where the seal strikes the crank also check for how much the seal lip is loaded, too heavy of load will heat and burn the seal, the grove arount the seal is 3/16" my filler block was just a couple of thousands over so with a little sanding you can fit that half of the seal in bacicly with no modification, just need to flush up the seal half on one side and mark and trim the other to length...If it doesn't work out you are only out about 16 bucks for the seal...Oh, on the standard 350 seal the lip is centered in the seal and the "off-set" style has the lip at the inside edge, this is to relocate the seal lip if the crank were to become worn...Anyway, good luck with your engine and let us know what you come up with.