I removed the fuel tank in my D60 today. After 21 years of sitting in storage I assumed the tank was empty. I was laying under the tank removing the strap bolts when the tank came loose. I then realized the significance of not relying on assumptions, when the tank hit my chest. It was 3/4 full of fuel. This was one of those times when it would be nice to have someone working with you,,,,,, which I didn't. If a video had been made of this event, I'd be sure to win some kind of prize.
OK, so I got it removed and now I have some more gasoline to clean parts with.
The sender unit has a float arm attached to bevel gears to transmit rotary motion to the top of the cover where there is located a rheostat affair to vary the voltage going to the dash gauge. whew. The cover has 4 screws.
Does anyone know the electrical values of the components, (ohms limits of the sender and gauge)?
And is there a modern replacement for this sending unit? All I can find is some 5 screw cover units that may work if the values are correct.
Does anyone rebuild original sending units?
Where Are You From? Texarkana, Tex
Do You own a car built by Durant? And Now, A 1929 Durant D60
don, i just had my sender from my 1929 model 60 repaired / rebuilt for $150 by
K-M LIFESTYLE CO. THEY ARE A BRANCH OF ATWATER-KENT IN MASS. AND THEY REPAIRED AND CLEANED IT TO NEW...IT WAS A COMPLETE WHITE CRUST WHEN I REMOVED IT..IF YOU LOOK UP.....K-M LIFESTYLE.COM AND CALL , THEY WILL HAVE THE INFO AND/OR SERVICE YOU NEED...TELL HIM YOU ARE DURANT CLUBBER FRIENDS OF MIKE LINTHICUM AND ME...
HE IS SUPER NICE....
I just found them on the web. Looks like a quality place.
There is another place called Tri-Starr in Seneca Falls, NY,
They are a fuel system and sender specialist.
I'll give both of them a call tomorrow.
Where Are You From? Texarkana, Tex
Do You own a car built by Durant? And Now, A 1929 Durant D60
Don: When I removed my unit from the tank after more than 40 years of not being exercised, it was probably in worse shape. The gears were white with oxidation and looked like one mass, frozen in time. The cork float was only a portion of the original size and sloppy on the wire arm. I soaked the gears and cleaned them with a wire brush, eventually finding the screws that held it together. I was able to take the unit apart, piece by piece and cleaned each of the pieces so they moved freely. I was able to use all of the original screws, pieces, and gears for the unit. I drilled out the pop rivets on the top electrical end, cleaned and aligned the rheostat arm to make certian it contacted the resistance winding thoughout the range of motion. I measured with a Digital Volt Meter to see if the ohms resistance was present and varied throughout the working range. Satisfied and confident that it will work, I installed a gasket with sealant and new pop rivets. I ordered 2 neoprene floats, I believe for a Model A, Part #: A9312FLM, from Mac's Antique Auto parts, and combined they make up the total length of the original one. I have not installed the unit in the tank yet so I can make some resistance measurements for you if that will help.
I'm almost positive Randy has a NOS sending unit with the 4 holes.
Minaker Auto Parts Milford Ltd
Address : Milford, ON
Telephone : 613-476-4547
Email : randy@minakersautoparts.ca
Category : Automobile Wrecking, Garages Auto Repairing, Automobile Parts & Supplies Used & Rebuilt
Yes Mike I think told us about A K ,when I was looking at my blob of what once were gears. Got a new sending unit for $51 from a Horton hot rod parts shop once I figured out what way the thing read and ohmage.
Atwater Kent Manufacturing Company
2 Jacques St.
Worcester, MA 01603
Don: When you get your working unit back in your hands, read out the ohms resistance for the full range and let us know what the values are. It always helps to compare and verify the values.