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Post Sandblasting

Hello All: I will be starting sandblasting of body parts soon on my '28 M-2. There will be a lag time between the cleaning and the painting (body work, size of wallet, etc.) Question is, is there something that I can apply to the bare metal that will minimize re-rusting during this period? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1928 M-2 Sedan

Re: Post Sandblasting

Ha Dennis.A good quality primer would help.also keep it in a dry storage area as primer will absorb moisture.Apoxie primer would be best to use.

Do You own a car built by Durant? yes a 1928 Rugby Truck model X , 1928 Durant 2 dr coupe, 1923 Star 2dr runabout [roadster].

Re: Post Sandblasting

WARNING: do not use sand media on sheet metal parts -- they will warp -- miserably!!! There is a technique for using sand but it takes practice and expericence to keep from ruining sheet parts. I wouldn't recommend you use it. I would recomend that you make certain the media you use is appropriate for sheet metal -- i.e. plastic, walnut shell, etc.

Re: painting primer for storage -- if you are in a humid area I would let it dry for a couple days and hit again. This is because paint can become porous as it dries -- the outer layer dries faster and skins over sealing the under laying paint that is still wet. As the underlaying paint out-gasses, it forms pores to channel the gas away from it -- however, it hardens with these pores which will soon rust.

A second coat of paint will fill in pores and create a better moisture barrier. Normally your topcoat of paint fullfills this function and it isn't an issue.


Curt Smith

Where Are You From? home1.gte.net/res02rxl/index.html

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1929 Model 40

Re: Post Sandblasting

Welp, I took the complete body of my '17 Overland Touring project down to the local Powder Coating place and had the entire body sheet metal sandblasted, they used about a #80 black media (not sure what it is called) that they had recicled several times, everything came back beautiful with the exception of the flat lower hood sections, I was reluctant to send them along as I have had problems in the past but did anyway, they still lay flat but have a slight convex in the raised area where the louvers would be if it had louvers, they look fine but would not recommend sand blasting lower hood sections or anything that is absoultly flat...I used an etching primer on the bare metal but did not prime the areas that I had rust through that needed repair, then had #22 gauge sheet metal(black iron) roughly formed and sheared to fit those areas, I also ground some 1/8" slots in the metal for plug welding to better bond the sheet metal when welding...Anyway, you have got to get in and root out the rust or it will lift your paint later, sanding down to bare metal with a DA usually dosen't get to the bottom of it, I learned that the hard way...Bill

Re: Post Sandblasting

Bill... Allow me to echo your thoughts and add a couple of my own. I've used about all of the methods during previous restorations, but only sandblasting seems to really "route-out" the rust in the pitted areas. My blasters are equipped with regulators and can be adjusted from 25lbs for etching glass to 150lbs for frames. For questionable areas such as hood sides or the centers of the door skins.... I use paint remover first to keep the blasting down to a minimum. I reblast any pitted areas a second time the next day to make sure all rust is removed. I also agree with Dave about using the epoxy primer instead of any regular primer. THEN AGAIN, if I lived near California... I shouldn't have to worry about moisture and the rust pits to begin with... right fellows? Just my thoughts

Re: Post Sandblasting

I think that the epoxy primer would be best for Dennis's needs, when I get through ironing and nailing I will be stacking on some epoxy as well...Please note the pot life of the epoxy and use caution when priming when the tempature is up, that stuff can and will kick in your spray pot before you can get it used up, "been there done that", also Lacquer thinner doesn't even cut it once it is set, so clean-up can be a *********** is suppost to be 95 degrees here in Yuma,AZ by Monday....Outch!

Re: Post Sandblasting

I'm surprised that no one discussed washing the metal down with phosphoric acid after you sandblast. This is sold as "metal etch" or "metal prep". It removes surface rust, etches the metal for painting and leaves a thin coating that provides some protection against rust. If the car is going to be in clean dry storage, that may be enough.

Of course, priming would be better but more expensive.

What do the experts say?

Do You own a car built by Durant? 1925 Star Touring.

Re: Post Sandblasting

I have had panels that have been treated with a phosphoric based fluid which is put on then washed off with water and throughly dried which have been is the garage for over ten years without developing any rust unless you touch them. This was advice I received from the night school teacher when learning to do panel beating. The advice I was told that unless you are ready to do all the painting them with just aprimer water moisture will get under and the rust the panels. So go for the phosphoric based system untill you are ready to do the full paint job.

Do You own a car built by Durant? Yes 3, D60 - 1929/30,D65 - 1928 and D63 - 1928?

Re: Post Sandblasting

Sorry guys... I should have posted this but instead I sent it to Dennis seperately. This is a picture of a bare metal body shell that was treated with "metal prep" 45 years ago and stored in a barn. It's held up great, but I hope nobody else waits this long before priming!
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Re: Post Sandblasting

In forty years I have probably done it all and here are my experiences. 1. Sandblsting can ruin flat surfaces. 2. Soda blasting is gentler but you need to make sure your wipe it down real well with thinner. 3. Paint remover is the easiest on metal but it does not remove rust. 4. DA surfaces with 80 grit will remove rust and give your primer something to grip to. 5. Acid etching primers (veriprime) works well and will protect the metal from rust. 6. two part epoxy works very well and has the advantage of allowing filler to be put on top of it.

My prefered method today is to dip strip, wash down the metal well and shoot a coat of two part epoxy. Then you can let it sit for several years if need be.
Hope this helps
Jan

Re: Post Sandblasting

When you guys talk about 2-part epoxy, are you talking about the stuff that can induce heart problems if not done with professional equipment? Or is that some more evil stuff? I'd like safety precautions to be mentioned when using these chemicals by amateurs.

Do You own a car built by Durant? yes

 

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