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I have started my restoration with my 1928 M-2. I started with the gas tank and found out that the tank has pretty weak metal on the side facing forward. After all my wrench handle ended up going right thru it. I would like to find out where everyone goes to get a new gas tank? Do I need to find someone to make it from scratch?
Is there anything else I should know about changing out the gas tank also? Like anything to do with the send unit equipment?
You guys are always good about helping I'm sure I will get some good advice.
You may find someone who can make one, or you might be able to modify one. '32 Fords also had gastanks at the rear, and they make repro versions for the big hot-rod crowd. I've never compared them. A trick the tractor guys do is put a smaller size tank inside the old one and then patch it over good enough to look original. Doesn't have to seal. I've been working on a Ferguson tractor, and it's tank is a possible candidate. They are available new.
There is no sending unit. You have a gauge at the back of the car to tell how full it is. Cub Cadet garden tractors have a similar system.
I think you must be talking about the vacuum pump unit. When I last took mine apart, gasohol had done severe damage. I think I can make it last a little longer, but if necessary, you can use the tank, or a similar one, and use a 6 volt electric fuel pump to fill it, with overflow line back to the tank, or some other arrangement. Use safey precautions when wiring up your pump. Have an extra shut-off switch for emergencies. I would doubt that the old carburetor float valve could take very much pressure without leaking. The header tank has a drop of about a foot or two, which is less than 1 psi. Be sure to plug your vacuum line if you try this. The vacuum alone is enough to suck gas, but you'll overflow the vacuum tank and create an over-rich situation with clouds of black smoke. This site has good info on the vacuum pumps. Mine worked good until I let it sit.
Thanks CDMN that is good advice to remember.
I would like to keep the vacuum system and try to run it that way. If it is too much trouble then I will switch to a electric fuel pump.
Do you know if those fuel gauges on the tank are easy to repair back to working condition? I'm sure I'm going to retro fit a gauge inside the car at a later date. Has anyone had much luck with doing that?
Thanks in advance,
A few years ago a club member had a gas tank made my this company. Rick
Rock Valley Antique Parts
Route 72 & Rothwell Rd. Box 352
Stillman Valley, Il 61084
Yea, I called them. They seem very good at what they do, but my problem is the cost is pretty steep (650.00). I'm not going to count them out at all they will be my last resort if I can't find any one closer that will do it. Frank W. gave me a great idea so I'm running with it. We will see what happens.
Thanks for you help,
My 1928 M-2 Has a sending unit in the tank and a guage on the dash. I had to make a new sending unit as the old one had totally decayed over the years. It is now working fine. Interestin though, on the back end of the car on the end of the tank opposit the filler opening there is an arrangement that looks as though there had been a space provided to provide for a tank indicator. It was my understanding that the 27 Star had the guage back there but the durant version the following year came with the electrical guage in the dash. Your guess is as good as mine on that. Ed.
My M2 1928 Rugby, exported to Argentina, has the original gas gauge in the left hand of the tank, a simple cork with a wire arm, pivoting move a cilindrical sector in front of the visor, Words "FULL" and "EMTY" are printed in the extreme positions as well as 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4. The hole indicator system, plus a cork seal and a round flat glass is fixed by a threaded cap that has an opening to permit the sight of the legends through the glass.
My car gas tank is exactly like Ricardo's tank. I wonder why the difference. Maybe the time of year the cars were made. Theres no telling.
I know that your tank may be beyond repair. However for those who have tanks that may have a pin hole or two you may want to try this. In the aircraft industry there is a compound called Sloshing Solution I have used it may times on my own aircraft. Fuel tanks with riveted seams are notorious for leaks. This solution is also used in aircraft floats. It does work and I never install a repaired or new tank without useing this prior to installation. It works on all tanks regardless of size or shape. I buy it at a pilot supply shop.