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I would like to take a few moments of your time to pick your brain about what you are doing with your electrical and gas issues in your Durant. I'm new to restoring a car that is this old and would need some help from some people that have crossed this path before.
Has everyone converted the their car to 12v. power or left it 6v.?
Did you stay with points in the ignition or did you switch over to electronic ignition?
Is there a 6v. starter out there that you can buy?
How about the generator?
Should I switch the generator to an alternator?
The gas issue I know that leaded gas helps in the cooling of the engine. Was there difference when you switched to unleaded gas?
I take it you have to reseat the valves in the block to work with unleaded gas is that all you have to do?
What about using the lead substitute?
I still need a ignition if anyone knows where I can get one that would be fantastic.
Thank you so much for your time,
I meant to say I'm still looking for a "Ignition switch"
What is your durant? I kept mine 6volt I have a w5 continental engine with a 27 chev dis. in it just changed drive gear on it and it is points. I use lead additive.but by letting us know what you have will help us help you.
You will likely get a number of different opinions on your issues. Here are mine. I would not convert your car to 12 volts. The car and the electrical system was designed to work best as a 6 volt, so keep it that way. I would not convert to an alternator for the same reason. You can get the generator rebuilt at any good shop, as well as the starter. All of the other parts are available, points, condensor, rotor, spark plugs, wire, etc. Look at the suppliers in the back of The Durant Partner. I have never used a gas additive in my 29 14L. Leaded gas was developed for cars that had very high compression to keep them from "pinging". Our cars have such low compression that it is just not a problem, or shouldn't be. I think that you should keep your Durant as stock as possible.
When you start making changes, it will effect something that you hadn't planned on. Then you have to make another change and then another change until you end up with the car the Johnny Cash wrote the song about. If you are new to this affliction it is best to stay with what was origonal.
Here's what I have found: Stay with the 6 volt system they are designed to work. The most common problem is a poor ground conection. Be sure the connections are clean and tight. Also don't use modern batttery cables, they are designed for 12 volt systems and are much too thin for the 6 volt system.
You can find the heavy 6 volt cables at any good farm supply store or old Ford parts dealers.
Stay with your generator the way it is, if you have one of the cars that has the distributor and water pump driven off the back of the generator , I don't know of an alternator that can be adapted. Also some of our cars have the generator driven by the timing chain.
I've never used any of the gas adatives, only use some Stabil to keep the fuel from deterioating.
About the only change I would make is to run one of the new Zenith carbs, they realy make a difference. I also use an electric fuel pump on my cars instead of the vaccum tank.
If you need any further info or help, or parts let me know...........
I'm so sorry for not letting you know what Model my Durant is. 1928 M2, 4 door sedan w/ original Continental W5 engine
I´m sure that if you restoring all the electrical system at your orginal 6V it´s works properly
I know some cars with 12v. system with alternator and looks really bad
I´m restoring a M2 1928 Touring
Thanks for all your input. This helps me out in which direction I should go to during my restoring of my Durant.
I restaured recently a 28 M2 Touring, 6volts, original generator and Stewart gas source. No problems at all, and reliable. Do not hesitate in mailing if required, I just wanted to add also my experience for your evaluation.
I have a 1927 Star which is much like your car and has a W5 engine. I completed my restoration in 1984, everything still 6-volts and I still use the vacumn fuel tank with no problems. If it is overhauled properly it will work. I have driven on 3 Glidden tours where we drove 100 to 150 miles each day for five days and have never had to be towed in. If the W5 engine and its components are overhauled properly you will not have a problem.
I am opposed to any type of modification that changes the character of the car and distracts from its historical value. I thoughly agree with everyone that says stay with 6 volts. Large size cables are a must for a 6-volt system. Model A supply stores are a good source. Joints should be soldered not crimped. This goes to for all wiring. If you have an electrical problem, contact me and I will see if I can help.
Adam, while not all that important, there are still tractor supply stores in my area that sell real lead additive(not substitute). Usually by the quart. Also there used to be a company in California that sold it by the gallon under the pretext of (for Marine use.) I add One ounce to a gallon of gas in my 28 M-2 Durant. Fritz Kuenzel
Adam, I have a mechanically and electrically restored 1928 M2 like yours. It is 100% original. I'm just outside Chicago. If you like, maybe you should come and see it. Gregg
I am looking for parts for my 1927. Durant Rugby:
- Continental 14 engine (complete)
- Brush set for the starter
- Brush set for the dynamo
- Front turn signal lights
- Klakson horn
- Rear combination light
- Ignition switch
- Ignition cabel
- Turn signal switch
- Mechanical windshield wiper
- Mirrors (all)
- Mazda original headlight bulbs
Please contact me if you have any of these available.
Where Are You From? www.antiqueauto.hu
I would stay with the 6 volt system. Like Bob, I am opposed to any changes from the original. I have a 1932 Frontenac that I have driven over 55000 miles in the last 35 years. It is still original in mechanical operation, just repainted and updated.
Make sure that your wiring is good. A new wiring kit will work wonders for electrical. Even if the old wiring looks good, if you cut open a sealed wire you will find that the individual small wires are corroded and causing a a decrease in voltage/amperage and poor electrical system. If you want to go the route of making your own wiring harness, do not use any wire less than 14 gauge, and use 10 gauge to the headlamps. Also solder all connections. Those new quick type connections are quick, but lose a lot at each connection.
The wiring harness is relatively simple for these cars and you can buy the proper wiring from some of the model A suppliers and make your own. Just takes time. Gives you a lot of satisfaction when you are done. Make sure you use the heavy duty cables from the battery to the starter and make doubly sure that you have a good ground. This is doubly important.
These are truly great cars and when restored to original work great!!!!
Keep on truckin!!!!
MY EXPERIENCE WITH 6 VOLT CARS GOES BACK ABOUT 50 YEARS...LIKE EVERYONE WHO RESPONDED. THE GAUGE FOR THE CABLES SHOULD BE AT LEASE DOUBLE OUGHT OR "00" FOR A GOOD 6 VOLT CURRENT FLOW. AND REMEMBER TO USE A GOOD AND CLEAN GROUND WITH AN EQUALLY HEAVY GUAGE CABLE. IF YOU LISTEN TO THESE DURANT RESTORING GUYS YOU WILL NOT GO WRONG. GOOD LUCK...GARY K