Hi Guys,can anyone tell me what the torque settings are to tighten the main bearings and rod bearings on a W3 engine.
Thanks Barry

Torque settings came into being in the late 30's (about 1937).Cars made before then were just tighten to the best idea of the mechanic.This system was very bad and the mother of the torque wrench invention. Warren

Thanks Warren, I never knew that, Guess I'll just have to play it by ear like the old guys.
Regards Barry

Barry. Not a good idea. You can get a hold of any machine shop in your area and they will give you a list of standard torque settings for all bolts of different size’s and settings for different use’s like main caps, rods, and head bolts etc. Really should go that route. If you don’t have any machine shops around I’ll get you a chart for your use.
Lance Haynes

One word of caution, the tensil streingth of bolts manufactured in the early years does not live up to the grade or strength of bolts manufactured today, I don't believe that the slick headed headbolts that were in my A-22 engine would equil even a grade #2...Thus please caution on the lighter side of the torque range if using torque charts which evolved after the streingth of bolts got better...

Stretched headbolt Bill.

Thanks Lance and Bill, sounds like good advise which I will heed. Thanks for the offer lance but should be able to get that localy, if not I will come back to you, your offer is much appreciated.
Regards Barry

Bill. What we always do is replace those old 75 + year old inferior soft stretched bolts and studs with a new rated bolt. Of course we sand off the rating marks on the heads of all new bolts so no one knows. We also pull all head stubs and find a lot of them reduced in size and badly rusted at the block. Scary. Just some helpful hints. Happy motoring. Lance Haynes

Barry,

See the article I wrote on Toque Specifications on page 15 of the February 2002 issue of the Durant Partner.

Bob

Bob - I didn't dig out that issue, but would they work on my 22A continental?
Lance - I'd appreciate any info you have.
Wayne

Thanks Bob will do that.
Regards barry

I've followed this thread for a while hoping to see some actual torque values for head studs etc..

Regardless of how they "used to do it", I would have thought that someone in the forum who has replaced a head gasket has come up with a torque value that works from experience. That someone isn't me yet, thankfully!

A person could always fall back on "tighten it 'til it strips then back it off a half turn" ..!!

RonJ ...

Where Are You From? www.ronjpics.com/durantstuff.htm

I've never torque and Continental head yet, but I have done more Model A Ford heads than I care to remember. In the case of Ford heads, it's recommended to apply from 55 to 60 pounds. This it done in steps, first take it down to 15, then to 35, etc. I can only assume that our heads would take about the same torque.

Rick

I just finished reinstalling the head on my 1930 Durant 614 after having the head planed .012 to true the surface. I installed hardened washers under the nuts and torqued the studs to 65ft.lbs. The torquing needs to be done in about 3 or 4 steps following the typical tightening sequence. After running engine, shut down and wait til cold, then recheck torque. Make sure to use a new head gasket. Some folks might look at a gasket and think its ok, don't take a chance, it probably won't seal properly. I used the Continental L-head engine manual I found on ebay for the torque settings and tightening sequence. even though the torque says 70-75 ft.lbs, for a 7/16" head bolt, I thought this a bit much, so reduced it to 65ft.lbs. Engine runs fine, no leaks. Good luck.

Good info Jim ... TY!!

Ron ...

Where Are You From? www.ronjpics.com/durantstuff.htm