F J Cruiser's as we all know are very prone to getting rock chips and cracks so they have to be repaired fairly often. My question is what is the best way to get that top painted molding off without denting or scratching anything. I know there is spots of urethane underneath it but they are still difficult to get off.

We always order new ones. I know it's expensive, but then you know it's done right.

What a load. Do you use a dealer w/s and install kit? It's expensive but you know it's done right. Any one with any sense of auto glass installations can R&R these with no problems.

Quoted one today and the customer has done her research. She actually asked if I had heard of the method of leaving the top on and sliding the glass under it to set it. Told her I had heard of the technique used on corvettes, but told her I had reservations... tried it on these OG? You were laughing at the others for doing the vette's the right way a couple years ago...

found it interesting she suggested it after reading about it on a toyota forum somewhere...

extract it carefully i have saved many we had our own supply

More proof that the end of the world as we know it is nearing. A customer suggesting install shortcuts that she read on a forum by amateurs.

Wonder if she does the same when she interviews brain surgeons for tumor removal

No, we don't use dealer glass and an install kit. I look at reusing those the same way I do flat cutting a molding and then gluing it back down. I've tried to reuse it with very little success, so I prefer to have a new one. If the customer doesn't want to pay for it, so be it, let them go somewhere else. Besides, most of these are done under insurance, at least around my area.

Problem is:
How many of these "experts" remove the top molding, reuse it & then charge for a new one anyway.
CHARGE FOR A NEW ONE & USE IT!

I have done several of these and I have mixed luck. In summer when the urethane is warm, I put a plastic stick under until I can get my fingertips on the back edge but do not lift up so you dent or crimp the molding. Then I pull the top molding toward the windshield and lift up to release from the clips on the top. The tabs will bend some and the bite of the clip can be lifted up and then slid off the clips. Then with a very thin cutting blade, like an Olfa knife, cut the corner tabs of urethane first and then the center. I have had a 60-70% success rate.

I do agree with Sglass. If you use a new one charge for it. If you don't use the new one don't charge for it. If you do, that is called insurance fraud.

We've hve unknowingly had "preffered vendors" have us save the mldg. then call us for the part #, so they can bill it. When we identify these rogue glass shops we refuse to share the info and sever the relationship.

Very sharp express blade or use a BTB serrated blade on a manual handle and use water and molding will come rite off ready for reuse 99% of the time

It does not matter if you use a dealer or aftermarket glass, just make sure you use new moldings. The moldings should not be reused.

Please tell us why?Do you get new dw1099 metal moldings also?

wouldn't be a bad idea as most of the ones around here have been dented, bent, and generally messed up. We just make sure to have new clips.

We always get new moldings, but I think I will try the "leave it on and tuck it under" method a couple times. Might save some cash customers a bundle and they'll appreciate that.

I've tried everything I can think of to save these, but they are always bent just a little bit and don't lay quite flat on the new w/s. I guess that's okay for some customers, but it's not worth the $300 problem if the customer doesn't like it and then wants a new one after the install is all done.

One thing would be to explain the options and risk and have them sign a waiver. A little CYA is never a bad thing.

We tried the aftermarket top molding twice...two strikes your OUT! JUNK! We get the dealer part. Im not big on stuffing top or bottom! BOB B. YOU STILL INSTALL? GBG.

Why the hell would you compare it to a DW1099. Is that urethaned down? Oh, it's not? Guess not really an apples to apples comparison. Maybe you should compare it to a DW848, they are both glass...

ur the type to install it dry with no glue LOSER!!!

As for Ford w/s, the 1099 was glued, the 911 was on kit, and the 819 was gasketed.

I meant that the moldings are not glued down on a 1099 (unless of course you took the hacker course), so what I intended to say is that a molding that is held down with plastic clips and urethane doesn't have anything in common with a molding held down by metal clips only.

My neighbor (at my shop) is a retired robotics engineer from chrysler. He stopped over last night as I was pulling this thing apart and he was amazed at the labor time this job consumed and how it could not even be cost effective in the toyota factory... I thought it was an excellent point.

F J cruiser= failed jeep cruiser

the only way to save the top painted mold. Is to extract it off. If you do that you will brake the clips and you will have to glue down the whole thing. Just tell the customer to but a new one I know its expensive but thats what they get for buying a car with three wiper blades on it.

FJ ....in junk

I cant beleive so many people have problems with these things. I can save 9 out of 10. Use a 4 inch utility knife blade on a long knife, cut the thane from the windshield side of the modling then take a plastic stick and pry from the top/body side to release the clips.

I don't save them.
I found an after market molding GGG2652 kit that works just fine. It come with the clips. Considering the time it takes to save them..... I have a new one no muss no fuss.

HTH, Al

these are really a pretty easy removal. i will use a window bone and slightly lift the corner and use an extractor blade and slice the urethane in all spots across the top. clips should remove easily afterward.

Careful on these, Notorious roof leaker from toyota.

LYNX / State Farm tried to charge us for water damage to customers headliner. Toyota dealer said our windshield leaked causing damage. After we went out to water test and inspect. water was leaking through roof rack. I yelled at dealer for wasting my time! there was water spots in headliner in rear cargo area.

LYNX is a joke, no research at all just took customers word and tried to bill us for 2k! anyway to bill State Farm directly and not go through LYNX?

Mobile auto glass. I too have seen so many vehicles that leak from the roof rack, and I have had 2 myself. 95 Jimmy, and a 97 astro van, both had roof rack issues. There are MANY,MANY, More.

YES Lynx is a joke, no doubt there. Now to your question about billing The farm directly. All I can say is WOW. I have billed the farm for 30 years directly, and I have billed through Lynx when appropriate. Just depends on how workable Lynx was. No 2 jobs are the same, and I don't treat them the same. Every job stands on it's own. Auto glass installation is not a commodity and never will be for me.

Why is it so many glass shops are so unsure of how to conduct business? It boggles my mind that so many have no clue how to run a simple business.

Is there some magical force that prevents you from billing the party responsible for your repair work? If there is such a force please enlighten me. THERE ARE NO INSURANCE COMPANIES THAT CAN NOT BE BILLED DIRECTLY.

So, you have not done the research to figure out who you should bill to, ok, so now take a new stand. Look up who you need to bill,and find out by looking for it, where to send your bill. It really is not that hard, but It is not easy. OK? If it was easy every dumb stick could do it.

If you are a mobile only, 1 man band it is still possible to direct bill. You need to have a working relationship with them before they will take you seriously. I did not build my relationships over night it took years of dedication. Overall, when you have the right person to connect to, the farm is workable,,,,, for now. But just wait,,, they are making some really stupid changes that will set them up for even more law suits. and if they stay on the wrong path they will pay dearly. The direct bill path you seek can only be conquered by those who are willing to give it all, or will do whatever it takes to get paid fairly.

Direct Billing is only for independent shops who have the guts and fortitude to follow though, get paid, and make a profit. The rest of you will not be around much longer, because you will be driven out of business..... Time to stand up an fight for what you are worth. enough said.

Sounds to me like MAG said he did bill SF directly. It's easy to do. Just send the bill and assignment of proceeds to SF Glass Central in Bloomington, IL.

Ive done my brothers F J 4 times in 4 years. Replaced the molding on the last install, but really didn't have too. He was hell bent on oem, so he went thru his insurance. I suggested a new one, however the old one was not bent at all. The difference I was the only one to replace his ws and it wasn't hacked. Ive done a bunch with only once requiring a new molding because it was ng.