Yo,

Anyone ever have any problems with Pilkingtons back sliders?

This one was for a Ford Ranger. It was the first PILKINGTON slider I have installed. I usually use OEM (preferred) or CR Laurence (if price is a factor).

Decided to try a PLK this time around...I didn't like it at all and will be surprised if I don't end up having to redo it at some point in the near future.

I've had good luck with em so far... done mostly f/s chevys... did one full size ford, fit good too. most of them are so similar to the crl's its a horse a piece. was it a bend issue?

I'm wonderinf if the wrong glass got into the box somehow or something becuase I've never had a problem with PLK until I got that piece of glass.

It just seemed like it didn't fit very and when I glued it up onto the truck the glue squeezed out and made a mess...I ran a small bead just as I do on the CRLs. I have never had that problem with a CRL.

I am definitley thinking it was the wrong glass. I am going to my supplier today to look at their other ones to see if I am correct or not.

Is that slider the one with the screw studs?

Urethane a ford back glass/slider???

That's what I was wondering,,, I thought rangers were either gasket or bolt in,,, foam core butle,,, or rope in ,, hmmmmm,, I sure hope he didn't thane in a bolt in,,,yuck!!!!

No this is an aftermarket slider like a CR Laurence.

The part said it was to be urethaned in...it is not a gasket or bolt in part.

The CRLs use gaskets and of course the OEMs are bolt ins.

I'm going back today with an OEM and get it done right. Its the first and last time I'll use a PLK slider. What a mess.

i don't even offer a CRL slider. OEM on all sliders/
Carlite-cause I know the bolts won't 'torque off' when installing.
Mopar-cause i know the 'fold over tabs' will be on the encapsulation.

Sounds like you 'care' about the finished result, AGN.
and that is good for you and your customers.
I guess we all had to learn things like this over the years (aftermarket sliders and such). Keep up the good work. What ya gonna do with the urethane on the body?
What ya gonna do with all dat junk?? All dat Junk??

Put it inda trunk wid all dat junk

The finished product turned out very well. The customer was not there, but I am sure she will be pleased.

I do care about the finished product and I really try hard to offer a quality installation. That is the main reason I never take more work then I feel like I can do a quality job on. It is very easy to over book yourself and end up in trouble.

I'm going to stick with OEM sliders from now on...the customers who want CHEAP will just have to use Diamond because even though I have had good luck with CRL in the past this experience has taught me a lesson.

AGN-what part number did you use on this installation? We have had alot of success with Pilk sliders and with Crl's-they both work well and we have had no problems at all..the only problems have been with maybe one or two bent from both companies but sometimes that can be caused by shipping..since it touches so many hands by the time you get it..but overall 99.9% success with CRL's and Pilks....we have installed a few hundred over the last few years with the promo's we do to attract business.

Jack,

The PLK part number was the same as the CRL part number which is DY90039. The main problem was that there were gaps on both sides of the glass...driver and passenger.

How do you put these in? I was always taught that they were urethaned in and have done many that way with success. This time proved different though the urethane squeezed out and made a mess.

Maybe you had a bad hair day, It happens.

I'm pretty sure there was a defect in the glass.

Problem solved now though...an OEM has been installed and the customer is happy.

We have not seen a Pilk slider, so I can't comment on those.

While we also try to use the OEM sliders as a first choice, we have done many Dodge, Ford, and Chevy CRL sliders as a lower cost option for the customer.

I point out the differences, and allow the consumer to choose.

I strongly recommend dry fits first on all, with the exception of the Ford Super Duty. On all urethane set CRL sliders, investigation of the fit prior to gunning the thane allows you to guage the required bead size which seems to vary from truck to truck, not just model to model.

Also, just an helpful hint, an alternative to the interesting tools to 'press' in a slider and hold it during urethane cure, we fashioned, some several years back, a simple system of four clear white pine (soft wood) boards approximately 36" long. Sand all edges on the boards round and smooth.

Slide them down into the gap between the box and cab, hold them at the needed height, and then wedge a large foam block between the glass and the board where needed to achieve the desired tension. (If you need so much tension to make the slider fit that you might dent the cab or box lip with the boards, buy a different slider, for heaven's sake, lol).

Use two, or three, or four of the boards as needed. Get the white spongy foam blocks from shipping containers (like from OEM sliders) you recieve. We prefer the white spongy foam blocks, about 3" X 4" in size.

Quick, cheap, stores easily, and VERY effective.

HTH