There are several good ones. I tried NVU, but I have found I like "HTML Kit by Chami" better. It's simple to use, with a built in preview, where you don't have to save everytime you want to preview. It also shows you where you went wrong in your code, if you use the html tidy, so you get clues on how to correct. It handles CSS, java, and I don't know what else. Both I have mentioned are free.
Most people don't realize it but they already have a FTP program on their computers. Internet Explorer can be used in the FTP mode to move files to/from your web site. I have several different FTP utilities but I find IE to be the simplest. Try this link to my Using FTP help page. There is information on finding your FTP information and configuring IE.
