| Author |
Comment
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hommer
May 7, 08 - 6:02 PM |
f150 back glass 01
whats the best way to remove a 01 f150 back glass?
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cold installer
May 7th, 2008 - 6:25 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
01's are bolted in with butyl if I recall.
Remove interior trim, remove 9mm nuts and push it out.
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rgl
May 7th, 2008 - 6:25 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
Brick
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hommer
May 7th, 2008 - 6:33 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
brick lol
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AGN
May 7th, 2008 - 7:00 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
I prefer ramming a four wheeler up against it. Thats how most of the back sliders around here get broken...rednecks with four wheelers :)
Seriously though...its a bolt in glass. Remove the interior as much as possible and unbolt it. Then push with all your might to get the butyle to release.
AGN
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Sir Slam A Lot
May 7th, 2008 - 8:09 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
I have a craftsman "O" ratchet for these types of back glasses, It is a 9mm on one end and a 10mm on the other. many of these 9mm nuts are hard to get at with a conventional ratchet. Sears has them for around 6 bucks. A must have for Ford sliders.
M-seal ( foam core butyle ) from the factory. I often wondered why the CRL sliders come with the old regular butyle and not the foam core!
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xs
May 7th, 2008 - 8:26 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
If reinstalling look for stress cracks in plastic frame in upper corners by plastic they tend to crack and leak water.................
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snowdin
May 8th, 2008 - 10:13 AM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
One more to add for GODS sake dont glue the new one in. I know that it sounds nuts but use butyl
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xs
May 8th, 2008 - 6:47 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
0and put all the nutz back...lol.......................
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AGN
May 8th, 2008 - 7:22 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
definitley use butyl...converting these to urethane is a diaster for the next person who has to replace it
AGN
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potato*
May 8th, 2008 - 8:49 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
especially if its you.....btw that brick thing was great i'm still giddy.
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xs
May 8th, 2008 - 9:59 PM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
Ahhh,Just lay down a Big Fat Bead,I dont want to hear it...lol..............................We did a few behind some filthy animals that used urethane....and they left the nutz off....lol.................
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glassmanpete
May 11th, 2008 - 1:17 AM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
such an easy job----from factory these *******s leak take interior apart as much as possible then with a gear wrench back off nuts. clean all butly off body and then scuff with a scuff pad the pinch weld. clean slider free of all dirt and butyl also scuff slider with scuff pad install butyl to slider and install press in firmly from center out. fasten nuts hand tight then tighten with gear wrench cenetr out.this slider will not leak again do not use urathane because if you did the job right and the cust:is happy he will be back, and if he comes back for a back glass your screwed
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Mark1
May 11th, 2008 - 10:11 AM |
Re: f150 back glass 01
I am curious what one does when you have an older bolt in part such as this, or other Ford bolt-in parts where bolts have pulled loose from the encapsulation, or CRL replacement sliders that have no bolts?
When dealing with broken loose bolts, to save the customer $$$ and generate a repeat loyal customer:
We have re-installed these with the broken loose bolts (removed from the encapsulation of course) and primed using a PVC primer on the encapsulation, then using a Euro bead (SMALL) appx. MAX 5/16 tall X 1/4" base V bead. (Prime, and fill the bolt holes in the encapsulation with urethane first, BTW) I suggest a HiMod Urethane; just don't set it "too deep".
No ooze, excellent bond, and cut out three years later when the window was broken again was easy. No interior removal, Fein out from inside quickly, bead is appx. 1/8 thick X 3/8 wide when set.
Note: I do NOT suggest bolts AND urethane. Use one, OR the other. If one bolt is bad, remove them all.
Of course, I would understand the cutout problems if someone used a "regular" sized bead, that would be terrible to cut back out.
When the bolts are intact, we follow Ford's procedures, except we always use an 8MM foam core instead of the 6MM that Ford calls for to avoid the problems that Ford had with all the leakers.
I would also mention that we re-did several from someone that used solid butyl regularly here. It won't compress like the foam core, and that seemed to be the cause of many of the bolts pulling loose from the encapsulation.
We also suggest to customers to avoid drive through car washes with these parts, because the repeated high pressure washers can blow through the butyl, AND through the cargo light seals on pickups, which causes people to think the back glass is leaking. Many times it's only the cargo light; always check it first when dealing with a leak.
Also FYI: do not use 8MM foam core with Dodge bolt in parts. It's too large. Use the 6MM.
HTH
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